Question about 1998 Ford Escort

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1998 Ford ZX2 quit running in traffic > will not start

Prior to failure had been advised by mechanic that the fuel pump was failing (low pressure). Ford Dealer looked at same problem and said there was no problem. When car broke down, I assumed it was the fuel pump > replaced the fuel pump > fuel line fully pressurized > Engine cranks but won't turn over > All plugs fire, so the engine has spark > Air filter is new and clean - no obstructions > Used a plug in analyzer and no codes were found to isolate the problem > three solutions suggested > replace CAM sensor, replace Crankshaft sensor, replace Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor > no information available for repair/replacement procedure for any of these items. Can someone give me some info so I can isolate the problem and/or change any or all of the recommended sensors.

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  • 13 more comments 
  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Very Helpful. I'll check into that, but I need more info on the crankshaft sensor - location and installation and the same for the CAM sensor...

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Solution # 1 > Thanks, but remember that I have full pressure and no bleed off when the key is off; spark at the plugs is OK; Engine cranks but does not turn over. Looking for info on CAM sensor and Crankshaft sensor - diagnositcs and replcement procedures

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Not a carbon deposit in the fuel tank problem...

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Hmmm...no spark if the crankshaft sensor. That may help me narrow things down a bit. Thanks. Still looking for definitive information.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Benimur - some awesome advice. Those will certainly be steps I take as I troubleshoot. Still I need to gather more input to be certain.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Mohammed387 - Good info for troubleshooting. Still looking for more about specific location and replacement instructions. If it were the Cam Shaft Position Sensor, I was told that the engine would not get a spark - same for the crankshaft position sensor.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    I will visit the autoshop101 site and look there as well. Some information I am getting sound like it will be helpful in attacking the problem, so I can prioritize my approach, bit I'm still searching for answers...

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Debroy - Thanks, but I'm not convinced carbon deposits in the fuel tank is the answer - fuel line is pressurized w/in acceptable pressure range. Something else is preventing the gas and air to mix.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Thanks Ronnieh49 - I have checked the fuses and relays. All are OK. Also I am getting spark at the plugs, so the coil pack seems to be firing OK.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Thanks again, but not a spark plug problem. No grease, no deposits, no cracks. Plenty of fire at the plugs

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Starter is OK. Battery is Brand New, so it's OK. Have not checked the alternator. The car died dead as a door nail in traffic. No signs that the battery was running the engine until failure. No warning lights. Car continued to crank but not turn once car was on the shoulder. Do not suspect an alternator problem.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Ronnieh49 - I need to check the O2 sensors

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Benimur - I can't get to that right yet, but will look for the toggle switch and if present I will try what you have suggested. Thanks again.

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    Not a head gasket problem

  • Greg Drozd
    Greg Drozd Dec 14, 2008

    thobias > thanks for your help, but my car is not an alpha romero, it is a 1998 ford escort ZX2. The particulars of this automobile are extremely different than the Alpha Romero

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Crank and cam sensors will cause no spark. Mass airflow will still allow the car to run but in limp mode only. I think you have a injector rail problem. I don't think the ingectors are working. Keep in mind the the injectors are not pulsed one at a time they all get pulsed at the same time so you can see that if power was interupted to the rail the car does not go. Measure the resistance of each injector with a good ohmeter.The number you get is not as important as the fact that they are all close to each other.Look fro a short circuit in one as that will cause the pcm to shut the power off to supply the rail. If possible, get a noid lite and check the power at the injector connection during crank.Grounds and other connections are critical as well. If you have been using the starer a lot it is possible that once that the surface charge of the battery is taken away that there is not enough voltage to work the compututer components correctly. 9 volts minumum is still needed during crank. It is good to see you are not going on a parts changing binge as this gets expensive and very frustrating.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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May be this link may help you..

http://www.wesingram.com/SPICA_Fuel_Supply_Diagnostic_Guide_Nov_2004.pdf

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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It might be bad head gasket too. Check your oil for coolant traces. If its milky, coolant is coming
to combustion chamber, causing engine to stop.
Also timing belt and grounding
Good Luck

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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Hmm sometimes the problem is found where you least expect it and you end up looking somewhere else. Ok so far we know the engine does not turn over. Did you check the starter , the battery, or the alternator aswell? just a thought , good luck finding what it is!

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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I think this is a problem which occurs when the fuel tank contains some deposits of carbon in it.try to clean it and look.thank you

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • debroy
    debroy Dec 14, 2008

    i think this is a problem which occurs when the fuel tank contains some
    deposits of carbon in it.try to clean it and look.thank you

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, a couple of ideas you may want to consider/explore:

  • the CAM sensor and Crankshaft sensor would affect the spark; based on your post, there is spark (very unlikely);
  • if it were the MAF, the computer would compensate making the air/fuel mix rich or lean but the engine would start albeit high or rough idle (unlikely).
Sorry to play devil's advocate.

With you indulgence, may I offer alternative ideas:
  • remove air filter, spray starter fluid, try starting again; if engine fires even shortly, then it is fuel delivery related;
  • check for IGN B+12 constant on one of the wires of any of the injectors;
  • check for pulsating 12 on the other wire of any of the injectors while cranking.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 14, 2008

    Appreciate the kind words and "gather more input to be certain" would be a logical approach.

    If you would bear with me, could you pls check if there is a toggle switch located next to the interior fuse box. Could you try switching it the other way and then just switch the IGN to ON/RUN but not start for about 15 seconds and then try start the car?

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If it were the crankshaft sensor you would have no spark at all.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • Ronnie Houston Dec 14, 2008

    id suggest you check the points and condensor but im not sure your vehicle has either,,,, if they are bad it wont start and they would be inside the distributor cap under the rotor.am trying to look at everything that could cause it not to run



    i think you have a coil pack on your vehicle so that would eliminate the points and condendor unless you have a distributer instead of throttle body.carburated in other words.theres a fusable link under the drivers side dash you might chech.if its bad the car wont start either. most people dont know about them. thet are square and have 2 to 3 prongs on them that run the motor. its like a starter relay.when my truck died it was that relay that killed it...it was a simple fix. check the relay under the dash and see if you dont need a new one

  • Ronnie Houston Dec 14, 2008

    have you checked the 02 sensors?

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I think this is a problem which occurs when the fuel tank contains some deposits of carbon in it.try to clean it and look.thank you

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • JITHIN ANTONY Dec 14, 2008

    try to use the site www.autoshop101.com.i think there may be a solution for you

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Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. Most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If little or no fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present at the fuel pump, the fuel pump has failed and needs replacing.



With a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail, turn the key to the on position without starting the engine. You should observe the fuel pressure gauge jump up quickly to operating pressure. Then turn the key off, if the gauge pressure falls quickly it is a sign of a failing fuel pump. Next check the fuel injectors; if the nozzle valve inside of the fuel injector is failing it can cause excess fuel to leak inside the engine causing a rich, hard starting condition.

C. Test Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
An idle air control motor adjusts the amount of air released into the engine when the engine is at idle. This air controller is monitored and adjusted as needed by the ECM. As car mileage increases the IAC motor is subjected to mass amounts of air which contain impurities that leave deposits that can slow or stop the operation of the IAC motor. To check for this condition remove the IAC motor and inspect, if the plunger of the motor has deposits, clean or replace the motor with a new unit. (Note: clean the air passenger ways with an aerosol cleaner before installing the new idle air control motor.)

D. Inspect for Vacuum Leaks:
Inspect your engine vacuum hoses for tears or ruptures. If vacuum from the engine is allowed to leak it will cause a lean mixture causing the engine to crank excessively before start up, replace any broken or cracked vacuum lines with new and recheck system.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Dec 14, 2008

    - Locate the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and
    camshaft position sensor (CAS) (note: if your engine is designed with a
    distributor sometimes the CAS is inside the distributor housing) disconnect the wiring connector to probe
    the connector, there are three wires on most of these sensors so three tests
    are needed. Set your

    multimeter
    to ac voltage and probe any two wires on the sensor side, have
    a helper crank the engine over you should observe the

    multimeter
    jumping between 0 and 2.5 volts on two of the three combinations.
    Continue testing until three pairs of wires are complete. (i.e.: right outer
    and center, left outer and center and right and left wires) if no pulse is present
    remove the sensor and observe inside the mounting port with a flash light. While
    looking inside the port have a help crank the engine over, you should see a
    small hole or magnet used to trigger the sensor, if this trigger is present
    replace the sensor. Perform this test for both sensors if equipped, If the sensors
    test ok suspect the ignition module (amplifier) or

    ECM
    .



    (note: try disconnecting various sensors like oxygen and coolant temperature
    and retest, sometimes a sensor can short circuit locking up the

    ECM
    -engine
    control module
    . If ignition pulse is restored plug sensor in one at a time
    until ignition pulse is lost, replace that sensor with new and reassemble.)





  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Dec 14, 2008

    A "hot" spark plug
    will have a longer ceramic insulator in the center of
    the plug than a "cold" one. On occasion, we have
    installed hotter spark plugs in an engine that uses oil.
    The hotter plug burns the oil off and keeps the plugs
    from fouling.


    You may have cracked
    a spark plug during the install or possibly
    you picked up some grease on the end of a
    plug while you were doing the install. Also,
    check the recheck the spark plug gap.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Dec 14, 2008

    Each repair job is
    different depending upon ease of assess to the damaged
    spark plug hole. Kits are available for thread repai

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Dec 14, 2008

    Do a compression check on the engine; you may find the
    compression low on the problem cylinder. Obviously
    double check that the spark plug wires are connected
    correctly. As for telling you which one is #1,
    that is impossible from our vantage point.
    Because, on a 1966 vehicle, you can bet the distributor
    has been removed and turned and the plug wires adjusted
    to suit the situation. The fact that the engine
    runs means you must be extremely close on all the plug
    wires. Just verify that the firing order is
    1–8–4–3–6–5-7-2.

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  • 479 Answers

a manifold absolute pressure sensor measures engine load by reading intake vacuum. a mass air flow sensor measures air flow as it enters the engine.
so, they are two different sesors but both pretty much supply the same info to the ecm. they read engine load to determine how much or how little fuel is need for the engine to operate at it's best.
It is located in the front passenger's side of the engine. I believe it is a 7/16 inch bolt. The sensor is held in with a "fork-like" retainer - be careful the retainer is centered on the new sensor. It's a very easy replacement - disconnect the wire (connector is up by intake manifold), remove sensor bolt and retainer, and remove. Installation is reverse of removal.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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