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Re: 1989 jeep laredo overheating
Providing that you do not have a head gasket problem (usually identified by either coolant in engine oil or excessive white smoke sometimes accompanied by actual water from tail pipe, I've found that the radiators in these puppies are way undersized. Added to that, Beginning in the 70's, the manufacturers began to "lighten" cast iron engine blocks by eliminating some of the zinc from the alloy mixture. Zinc is also a binding agent as well as protection against rust.Rust gets into the radiator passages and plugs them up. During a normal flush, (in car) the rust is too heavy to come out of the tanks. Therefore if you remove the radiator and back-flush it, hold it first with one tank down, then with the other tank down, permitting the flush water to escape through the hose connection at whichever tank is down, then filling the radiator with clr household calcium rust and lime remover while standing upright with lower hose connection plugged for about an hour, then re-flushing as above, 90% of the time it will restore function. Note:before replacing radiator take therm out, run strong flow of hose water through engine to remove as much junk as you can from internals.
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The sensor would not likely have shorted, but the sensing material may have changed due to overheating. The thermostat may also be in trouble. Replace both, then take the car to Autozone or similar business for a free computer scan, which can remove any error codes. Then drive the car to see if it resets further codes. Make sure the cooling system is topped up in both the radiator and the overflow tank. Check your other hoses for condition and replace if necessary. If the entire engine overheated, be on the lookout for antifreeze leaks around the heads and for strange misfire codes. It may have warped the heads from excess heat. Hope this helps!
Can't tell you where to go, but sounds like you likely have a plugged up radiator...the insides of the 4.0 engines rust considerably and generate a ton of loose rust which prevents proper flow of coolant in the core. Most times it can be flushed but sometimes it gets in there so tight that it's easier to just change it.
when it's overheating check to see if the lower radiator hose is hot. if not therm is bad. If OK, check temp sensor on thermostat housing. signal from there goes to the computer, then to fan relay to turn on fan.
Under the hood on the pass. side firewall are two heater hose lines.
Start the car and let it get at normal operating temp. One of the hoses
is the "in" to the heater core, if you touch it it should be hot. The
other hose is the "out" of the heater core, this hose should be warm
and not really hot like the "in" hose. If the hose going in is hot and
the other cold, then your heater core is clogged. There is a valve
connected inline with one of the heater hoses, this is the heater
If the valve does not open, you will not have any heat either.
there are three hoses leading to the water pump. the biggest one oviously goes to the thermostat housing, but the other two are much smaller 1 inch hoses, one of wich goes on the water pump and the other on the thermostat housing. if you follow the hoses one will connect to the upper part of the overflow for the radiator after hitting a T in the lines, that hose connects to the thermostat housing, and the other goes to the water pump its self.