Hi I have 1989 Tercel 5 speed stick, recently I had to change the rightbatery connector, it has fusible links in line, I''m not sure thepurpose of it, but the connector to the terminal was shot so Iunscrewed it and changed it anyhow, I had no problem starting theengine after changing it, then I tried to start it and it failed tostart, I lthought I wasn't pushing down the clutch enough,and then itstarted. Today, I was out driving, stopped and started no problem untilI made my ast stop at the gas station,went to start it up and nothing, checked the connection on the batteryterminals nothing loose, checked the inline fusible links all good,checked the fuseblock all good. Finally push started it and it startedright up, could it maybe the starte and nothing to do with the batteryterminals? I will try to post a picture of the terminal connecton forclarification
Re: 1989 Toyota Tercel 5 speed stick trouble starting
Sounds like you may have a problem with the clutch safety switch. It's acts similar to a neutral safety on an automatic transmission. Check it with a ohm meter to see if you have continuity when you push the clutch. It is located under the dash on the clutch linkage. Do Not bypass this switch as it can be dangerous if you start in gear.
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Re: 1989 Toyota Tercel 5 speed stick trouble starting
Sounds like your clutch safety switch, the switch that keeps the vehicle from starting unless clutch pedal is depressed, is not working.. the correct thing to do would be to buy a new one.. on the other hand cutting the wires and wiring them together will work just fine.. but keep in mind the vehicle will then start in gear with out pushing in the clutch pedal so use extra precaution when starting if you decide to take this route.. hope i could help
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There should be 2 white wires coming from the alternator. There is a splice where it will go into 1 wire then into the fusible link. If the fusible link is not burned, simply match the gauge wire coming from it. You should never use anything smaller in diameter than 10 gauge wire for the charging system. If you want to replace the fusible link, you can run separate white wires from the alternator to the positive battery post with individual fuses or fusible links. I would recommend each wire have its own Maxi fuse holder with a fuse no less than 60 amps each.
Often its the igniter, the ignition control module, located, I think, on the firewall driver's side. Did you check for codes by jumping "t" and "e1" on your little diagnostic connector(same location as igniter-lift cover on little box, diagram of pin #'s is on top of cover). You'll have to watch your cel light on dash to record codes. Also check your fuses and relays in the little black box by your battery (efi fuse, main relay, the 30 and (40 or60) amp AM1 &AM2 fuses). Good luck. Oops, also I think there is a fusible link near your batt. but if it cranks over, it wouldn't be the fusible link.
Usually the power feed to the headlight switch isn't fused. It will come from a fusible link under the hood. On the right side of the firewall there is a black plastic cover, under it are the fusible links. Check here for a possible blown one. I would also suspect the headlight switch may have originally caused it to blow if thats the case. If you have already replaced the headlight switch, replacing the fusible link should repair the lights. Make sure you replace the fusible link with the same gage wire and same length.
possibly a fusible link is rotted internally this means when the circut gets hot at the link it goes open and after it cools down ..contact is made again untill it heats up again..a fusible link may power up as many as 5 different circuts or fuses/ circut breakers...these links are like a real rubbery type of wire usually orange or grey in colour they will have a connector about the same size as a cigarette ****, and the wire colour may change from this connector ..the connectors are usually white or black plastic. and they are all attached to a power source such as the back of the alternator or at the starter motor or at a junction block of some sort ..all depends on year ,make, model..ect they most always corrode at the connector underneath the wire insulation...good luck
temp sensor bad or gunked up. its inside your breather. check your vac motor on the top on the end of breather. its your emission system totally. but the start of your issue is the temp sensor.if you dont have it pluged in then all your emission sensors are not gonna work.
You said you have no fuel pressure, so I assume the truck is fuel injected. I'm not sure why you thought changing the ignition module would restore the fuel pressure.
If you look in the engine compartment and find the diagnostic test connector you will find another connector close to it that should be marked "fuel pump or F.P.".It will be back by the firewall usually in the same area as various relays including the fuel pump relay
Connect a wire from that connector to ground and turn the ignition switch to run. If the pump is working you will hear the relay click and the pump running.
If you don't keep touching the wire to ground so you can at least locate the relay, then check to see if the fusible link for the fuel pump is burnt out.
If you find that the fusible link is ok but you don't hear the relay click then the relay is probably shot.
If your truck has recently been in an accident or someone bumped into it hard, the first thing to do is check to see if the inertia switch needs to be reset.
Has the 1989 starter ever been changed? To test the solenoid, use a jumper(14 Ga. wire with alligator clip at both ends). Connect one clip to + terminal (Large wire from the battery) on the starter. Do not let the other clip come into contact with anything , at this point power is present at the other clip and arcing will occur. Be careful. Disconnect small wire(usually a Black wire with white stripe) from the solenoid and move it to the side. Make sure the Transmission is in neutral and E-brake is applied to prevent runaway. Now turn ignition switch to On position. Next, touch the loose end of your jumper(clip) to the tab on the solenoid where the small black wire was unplugged from. If the starter is good, it should spin the engine and run. Nippon-Denso and Hitachi starters are prone to low voltage at the small wire(Black with White strip). If the starter does not spin with the jumper, starter must be replaced. If the jumper works, then disconnect the jumper wire and plug the small wire back to the starter. Keep the jumper in the car for future no-start conditions.