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1. Check coolant level to ensure full, and thus getting to heater core. 2. If that didnt work, With engine hot and running, and heat on in the truck, feel heater core inlet and outlet hoses at the engine compartment firewall to ensure both are hot an thus getting flow. If not the core is clogged or there is a faulty valve in the flow path. 3. If te hoses are hot there is flow thru the core and either your blend door is broken and shut or the blend door motor or circuitry is bad. 4. You tube Ford Ranger blend door for video on how to access behind the glove box. You can fairly easily remove the motor and undoing so check its operation and also the blend door operation. Likely your motor has gone bad and can be replaced using a low profile socket wrench to remove the 3 Screws holding it in place. I bought a new motor for $40 at One o te auto parts chains locally. Good luck!
There's a heater core box where radiator coolant passes through. When you turn on the heater, the fan on the heater core box blows air through the core, then the air is heated up and it passes through the air ducts, which leads to the windshield defroster, the vents, or your feet depending on where you set the control. If you're not feeling heat, either the fan on the heater core box is not working, or there's restriction on the coolant hoses and hot coolant isn't passing through the heater core box. Remove and diagnose the heater core box to ascertain the coolant lines are not blocked and the fan is fully operational. If the heater core box is OK, then the hoses have restriction to prevent hot coolant from passing through the heater core box.
Does the blower motor still work? Lift the hood after the engine is at normal operating temperature, and feel the two heater hoses going from the engine into the firewall. Both should be hot if the coolant is circulating through the heater core. If they are, one of the inner doors in the heater box may not be operating. The doors are either cable operated or vacuum operated from your heater controls. One door in the box should be open when heat is desired to let the blower fan blow air across the heater core, and then to the vents where heat comes out. The heater box is usually rather large, under the middle of the dash. Have someone check your temperature blend door- I believe that is the one that may be at fault. Now if only one of the heater hoses is hot, and the other is cool, the coolant is not circulating through the core. Look for an in-line water valve on one of the hoses. These also may be cable or vacuum operated from the heater control head. Not all vehicles have a valve, just some do.
There is a thermal fuse inside the air duct. It is located behind the passenger glove compartment. tilt the glove door down and remove and look in. You will see a conector with about 4 to 5 wires. usually held on with two screws remove and inspect. The thermal fuse that runs between the coils will be open. Bypass it at your own risk or buy a new one from dealership or auto wrecker. May meen you fan is running too slow also and not blowing enuf cool air past it.
Look ,behind the glove box,on top of the hac box,toward the center of the truck,it is a flat box,with a multiple wire plug in it,it is the temp door actuator motor,that turns as you select the cold,to hot selection,it may not be turning all the way for hot.You can remove this motor,and turn it,yourself to see,it is hard to do,because it is ressesed in the box.
I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe. The front blower is working, its blowing strong, but its cold air even with the temp setting as high as it can get. The rear blows hot air. The engine temp guage is at about 210ish which is close to being normal (220). I just replaced the thermostate a few months ago, I don't know if its bad again, or it I deluted the antifreeze too much and it frooze the heater core, or if the heater core just went bad. Any one know what the cause could be?
Disconnect the respective cable clip and disconnect the cable from door.
Remove the cable retaining screw, then, while holding the cable with pliers, rotate the mounting tab on the cable to lengthen or shorten cable. Avoid pinching cable too tightly as damage to the cable will result.
Reverse procedure to install.
Remove glove box, then loosen cable attaching screw at the selector duct assembly.
Make sure the cable is installed in the bracket on the selector duct assembly, then place temperature lever in ``Cold'' position and hold while tightening cable attaching screw.
The ducting to the left must be fed from the heater box. Yet the blend door must not be sealing allowing the cold air the blend with the hot. Check the blend door mechanism, behind glove box, or some dash panels may need to be removed to access this door.
You'll need to check some things to see where the problem is. See if the hoses to and from the heater core are hot, and your cooling system is full. If the heater core definately has hot coolant going thru it, then the problem is probably in the heater control system inside the car. I believe this car has an electric motor that controls a temp/blend door in the heater box. You'll need to see if it is moving the door. I have seen the doors break and the motor just spin. If the ac controller detects the motor is travelling too far, it will shut the motor off. Bat disconnect will fix this but you'd still have to replace the broken door. Depending on wether you have dual zone temp control, it may have 2 motors and 2 doors. One is directly behind the glove box easy to get at.The other, you don't won't to know, it's behind the heater box. Single zone motor should be behind the glove box. Lower glove box down, you can remove motor easily and feel the door's shaft. If it spins free the door is broken. Broken blend doors are common. Other possiblities are electical problems with the ac control or motors.