Question about 1998 Subaru Forester

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Clutch pedal fades after repeated clutching - 98 Forester

Driving in traffic and repeated use of the clutch results in the clutch not recovering to its original position. I have to depress the clutch completely to the floor. After a while the clutch does not disengage completely, so it is difficult to shift, especially downshifting.

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If the pedal got lot of play if its hydrolique air in the system or missing oil brake fluid goes in the reservoir pierre

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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Jan 13, 2016 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

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I have just put a brand new clutch (clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust bearing, spigot.bearing) in a Subaru Forester, flywheel was machined, it feels great, can select all gears easy, pedal height and...

Interesting problem. A bent fork is not impossible, but this would usually make the clutch not release fully. Try increasing the pedal free play, so that you can guarantee the slave cylinder is not holding the clutch slightly open. If not this, then it all has to come out again ...

Jun 28, 2014 | 1998 Subaru Forester

1 Answer

When driving my 99 cougar and shifting into neutral at a stop sign/stop light my car remains at high idle and grinds teeth when I put it back in first. What could be the problem?

Sounds like the gearbox. But the test is this: Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal DONT HIT THE GAS. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If you hear grinding its the gearbox.

Jul 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bought new clutch new slave new master still no pressure on pedal how do you bleed the clutch

Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.

Aug 18, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

The clutch pedal on my '98 chevy silverado is

The clutch in your vehicle is connected to your pedal via a cable system or a hydrolic system. BOTH were available. IF yours is hydrolic, which is doubtful due to behgavior, your cannot adjust it. The cable type is better suited for adjustment. This is done at the end that attaches to the clutchplate at the bracket located on the transmission housing. It will turn to adjust. right tight left lose, it appears that you will need to tighted it a pinch to keep it from "jumping." DO NOT tighten so that the clutchplate disengages, this only a very slight adjustment. good luck

Mar 22, 2010 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

After being in traffic for more than an hour the clutch stops working. If I shut off the vehicle and let it cool down a while the clutch works again. What would cause this? It actually has a relatively...

Sounds like your clutch job didnt include a good cleaning/machining of the flywheel. They glaze up from overheating and when you get them hot *(like from being in lots of stop and go traffic) the clutch "fades" or slips excessively. The bad news is....the more fading that occurs, the more glazed the flywheel gets.

Also, if you have a hydraulic clutch setup the clutch master and/or slave cylinders may be getting old and tired and starting to leak under constant use.

If you have a cable clutch you may just need to adjust the freeplay to take some of the slack out of the cable.

Dec 15, 2009 | 2000 Kia Sportage

2 Answers

My '98 Escort ZX2 has 175,000 miles. I recently noticed a grinding or chattering with the clutch pedal depressed with the transmission in first gear. While stopped at a light the car suddenly began jumping...

You need to check your clutch master cylinder reservour, not your brake cylinder. It is located approx in front of the clutch pedal, outboard of the brake cylinder. If it is low, you need to inspect for leaks around it, the lines connecting it to the clutch slave cylinder that is mounted on the transmission.

Dec 05, 2009 | Ford Escort Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Help with stuck gears in a standard

clutch is not disengaging enough, probably when hot.
If this is hydraulic clutch, try bleeding the system.

  1. Remove the bleeder screw cover from the clutch slave cylinder (7A508) and attach a hose to the bleeder screw.
  1. Place the other end of the hose in a container.
  1. Slowly pump the clutch pedal (7519) several times.
  1. With the clutch pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder screw to release the fluid and air.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  1. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until no air bubbles appear in the fluid.

May 22, 2009 | 1994 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

I have a 98 Subaru Forester, and the clutch has finally given replace the clutch I was quoted between $800 - $1300 - so its not worth it to have it fixed. Engine runs fine, shifting has no effect...

Sorry for your loss, you should be able to get it changed for less, around 600.  Did the clutch slip at all before it broke?  Can you now put the car in any gear with engine idling w/out the pedal?  If yes, then the clutch is worn to nothing.  If no, then it's a broken pressure plate or clutch cable.  Does it feel like there is no pedal pressure at all?  This indicates no cable or hydraulic pressure (if your is hydraulic) and a cheaper fix.  Good luck!

Jan 18, 2009 | 1998 Subaru Forester

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