Question about 1998 Subaru Forester

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Clutch pedal fades after repeated clutching - 98 Forester

Driving in traffic and repeated use of the clutch results in the clutch not recovering to its original position. I have to depress the clutch completely to the floor. After a while the clutch does not disengage completely, so it is difficult to shift, especially downshifting.

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  • Subaru Master
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If the pedal got lot of play if its hydrolique air in the system or missing oil brake fluid goes in the reservoir pierre

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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Jan 13, 2016 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

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I have just put a brand new clutch (clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust bearing, spigot.bearing) in a Subaru Forester, flywheel was machined, it feels great, can select all gears easy, pedal height and...


Interesting problem. A bent fork is not impossible, but this would usually make the clutch not release fully. Try increasing the pedal free play, so that you can guarantee the slave cylinder is not holding the clutch slightly open. If not this, then it all has to come out again ...

Jun 28, 2014 | 1998 Subaru Forester

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2001 406 diesel estate manual. 11600 miles. clutch replaced 2 years ago. normal everydare use it is all ok. recently was in heavy traffic for over 2 hrs. never out of 1st & =2nd gear. Engine temp just...


If the clutch is correctly adjusted, it will start to engage when releasing the clutch pedal at 1 in. off of the floor. When in Heavy traffic shift trans to neutral while at a stop, take your foot off of the clutch pedal to avoid overheating the release bearing

Jun 05, 2017 | Peugeot 406 Cars & Trucks

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When driving my 99 cougar and shifting into neutral at a stop sign/stop light my car remains at high idle and grinds teeth when I put it back in first. What could be the problem?


Sounds like the gearbox. But the test is this: Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal DONT HIT THE GAS. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If you hear grinding its the gearbox.

Jul 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Bought new clutch new slave new master still no pressure on pedal how do you bleed the clutch


Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.

Aug 18, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

The clutch pedal on my '98 chevy silverado is


The clutch in your vehicle is connected to your pedal via a cable system or a hydrolic system. BOTH were available. IF yours is hydrolic, which is doubtful due to behgavior, your cannot adjust it. The cable type is better suited for adjustment. This is done at the end that attaches to the clutchplate at the bracket located on the transmission housing. It will turn to adjust. right tight left lose, it appears that you will need to tighted it a pinch to keep it from "jumping." DO NOT tighten so that the clutchplate disengages, this only a very slight adjustment. good luck

Mar 22, 2010 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

After being in traffic for more than an hour the clutch stops working. If I shut off the vehicle and let it cool down a while the clutch works again. What would cause this? It actually has a relatively...


Sounds like your clutch job didnt include a good cleaning/machining of the flywheel. They glaze up from overheating and when you get them hot *(like from being in lots of stop and go traffic) the clutch "fades" or slips excessively. The bad news is....the more fading that occurs, the more glazed the flywheel gets.

Also, if you have a hydraulic clutch setup the clutch master and/or slave cylinders may be getting old and tired and starting to leak under constant use.

If you have a cable clutch you may just need to adjust the freeplay to take some of the slack out of the cable.

Dec 15, 2009 | 2000 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

I have a 98 Subaru Forester, and the clutch has finally given out...to replace the clutch I was quoted between $800 - $1300 - so its not worth it to have it fixed. Engine runs fine, shifting has no effect...


Sorry for your loss, you should be able to get it changed for less, around 600.  Did the clutch slip at all before it broke?  Can you now put the car in any gear with engine idling w/out the pedal?  If yes, then the clutch is worn to nothing.  If no, then it's a broken pressure plate or clutch cable.  Does it feel like there is no pedal pressure at all?  This indicates no cable or hydraulic pressure (if your is hydraulic) and a cheaper fix.  Good luck!

Jan 18, 2009 | 1998 Subaru Forester

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