I'm trying to remove my front hub bearing. I've got the hub nut off and the knuckle mounting bolts loose, now ready for the wheel puller. The stub shaft and axle have an inch or 2 of lateral play, however. Using the wheel puller will push hard against the axle, bottoming it out somewhere in the differential. Will I damage anything?
Here is the easiest way . take a 14mm socket and extentsion and place it on the bolts and place againt your axle tube and start your truck and turn your wheel against it instead of pounding you will use your powersteering like a press to get your hub out its quicker and less strenous than pounding on the bolts ive done this many times i even made a extentsion for it i use a 14mm 1/2 drive shallow socket and a extension thats about 4 inches long i know im posting late on this one but if it helps anyone out then great
Use 12 point 14mm socket to pound on 3 flange mounting bolts. un screw bolts a little at a time when doing this. some hubs are really rusted on may take a while but it works. you will also need to buy a new 14mm socket when your finished,
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The wheels have to be removed, along with the brake calipers. There are four bolts that hold the unit hub bearing onto the front knuckles. The hubs have a very tight tolerance area that fits into the knuckle. Sometimes the hub siezes into the knuckle and this is where the labor and parts can pile up. What makes this even more difficult is that the brake rotor can only be removed after the hub is knocked out of the knuckle, so it all has to come out as an assembley.
There is a nut in the middle of the hub. That nut is on the end of the axle stub, which passes through the hub bearing. If they make good time getting the hub and all out, they can still get stuck trying to get the stub shaft out of the hub. And it will have to come out to get the U joint out. Replacing the U joints should be straight forward.
About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....
The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
Install the disc brake rotor.
Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts
Removing a hub/bearing assembly
If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind
The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle
Removal:Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove caliper assembly. DO NOT allow caliper to hang from brake hose. Always support caliper by wiring it to frame. Remove rotor. Loosen and remove ABS speed sensor mounting screw. Carefully remove sensor head from steering knuckle. If sensor head is seized due to corrosion, use hammer and brass punch to tap sensor. Tap edge of sensor ear, rocking sensor from side to side until it is free. DO NOT use pliers on sensor head. Remove axle shaft nut. Remove 3 bolts securing hub assembly to steering knuckle. Pull hub straight back from knuckle. If hub is corroded, pry between hub flange and knuckle
Fully remove knuckle pinch bolt. Insert pry bar between lower control arm and steering knuckle. Push down on pry bar to separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Ensure ball joint dust boot is not damaged during removal. Loosen and remove strut-to-knuckle nuts. Bolts are serrated where installed into knuckle. DO NOT turn bolts in steering knuckle. Use soft-face hammer to drive bolts out of knuckle. Remove knuckle from vehicle.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification. DO NOT fully tighten axle nut until vehicle is on ground. Ensure hub mounting surfaces are clean and free of foreign material. Coat speed sensor with high temperature grease before installing onto knuckle.
Remove the hub/bearing assemblies and the axles will pull right out. 3 bolts (12 point bolts) hold each bearing to the knuckle, and the bearings may be frozen into the knuckles - this can be a problem and you may need the assistance of a pro if you can't get them out.
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
i just did a 2002 2500 4x4 with a dana straight axle and had no problem getting on the bolts with a 9/16 12 point socket on a 6 inch extension. If you do not use an extension the head of the ratchet will hit the yoke of the axle shaft.