Drums will spin, so I don't think the brakes are catching. I tried some friendly persuasion w/ a rubber mallot. No joy! tried a small sledge but didnt want to bang to hard, it's as if they arewelded on. What am I missing?
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I should have disengaged when it broke if not it is jammed some where and not releasing so raise the rear and follow the brake cable to the rear axle and remove cable try rotating wheels if no joy remove wheels and tap brake drums and try rotating drums if still no joy try stripping brake system down on rear axles to free up internals
Bob, I recently had the same problem on my rear brakes on my S-10, I too relieved the tenioner all the way and could not get my drums off. The problem was opening in the drum that fits over the axle stub was seized. I soaked it good with Areo-Kroil over night and used a puller to get if off. If that wouldn't have worked I would have used heat on the drum around the opening, however you need to be careful when appling heat as not to melt and seals (i.e. brake cylinder axle seals) in my situation if I coundn't have got the drums off I would have cut them off with a adbrasive wheel on a die grinder as I had purchased new drums, (mine where almost as cheap as having them machined. When you put the drums back on put some anti seize on the axle stub and hole on the drums. Good luck I hope this helps
sometimes the emergency brake will stick even after it is released. Most drum brakes will still let it go backwards but not forward. I would pull the rear drums and check. If e/brake is stuck removing the left drum will be difficult. If so then you will have to manually adjust the brakes until drum loosens up. good luck
These drums should have a couple of small extra holes on about the same circle as the wheel studs which actually have thread in them for screwing in forcing bolts to pull the drum off. The thread should be M8*1.25 (a fairly standard Suzuki metric thread) and if 2 bolts are screwed in EVENLY (ie: half a turn each, alternately), then removal should be a piece of cake. Sometimes, light tapping at the other points between the other wheel studs may assist. Of course, if the drum is very badly worn, there will be a great deal of resistance to pulling the drums STRAIGHT off. I recommend SPINNING the drum while screwing the bolts in. This may be very hard to do, so replace all the wheel nuts (no wheel) so no thread damage will occur, and use a long bar across 2 protected studs to turn the axle. Then screw the bolts in a bit more, and turn the axle a bit more, and repeat. You will have to unscrew the wheel nuts a bit as the drum comes off.
the first thing you need to do is back off the brake shoes which is done through a slot on the backing plate (you will need a brake adjustment tool) then some imports have 2 or 3 screws holding the drums on to the axle flange yours may not. you should be able to pull the drums off but they may need some persuasion with penetrating oil around the axle flange and a hammer tapping the drum free be careful not to hit to hard as these are made out of cast iron and break easily
Very simply... before you jack the car up, loosen the lug nuts (just enough so you can loosen them after it's jacked in the air). Then remove the lugs, wheel to expose the brake drum. The drum is sitting snugly on the lugs, but with a little persuasion, will slid off the lugs exposing the shoes and hardware. nothing tough about it.... Good luck.. K
Hi, Removing the drums can be a little difficult if they are really worn and. have a large lip inside where the brake shoes have worn them down. Anyway here goes, loosen wheel nut/s slightly, raise the car and make safe by using an axle stand or similar then lower it so the wheel is off the ground. Remove all nut/s and take wheel to one side, you'll then see the whole of the drum, there should be 1 or 2 retaining Philips type screws between the locating holes for the wheel, these need to be removed possibly with an impact screwdriver if too tight. Once screws are out release the hand brake, hopefully the drum will rotate, try waggling it from side to side along it circumference pulling the drum towards you, it may move a few mm then lock? try using a very heavy rubber mallet to thump the outside edge of the drum whilst turning it. This hopefully will loosen the brake shoes holding the drum on you may need to keep doing this for a good while. If you have no success then try carefully doing the same with a copper/hide hammer. Still no joy then possibly the lip inside is too great meaning the drums maybe beyond their wear limit so a good belt with a heavy lump hammer is the only way. I hope this helped? please press the Blue button if happy with my FREE Efforts, Thank You! Paul 'W' U.K.
The rear brake drums are retained onto the spindle assembly with a cotter pin which locks a nut in place.Remove the cotter pin,and spin the nut off,then remove the washer behind the nut,and the brake drum assembly slides off.You must catch the outter wheel bearing as the assembly is sliding off.When reinstalling,the bearings need to be set with just about .001" of free play.Reinstalling TOO tight will burn up the bearings.