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Re: Audi A6 1996 heating not works
The heater cores in these cars get clogged very easily and it is very common to see these symptoms. pull both the heater core hoses off of the heater core, and backflush it with your garden hose. flush one way, then the other, untill you see clear water coming out. then re attach the hoses, re fill your coolant reservoir, and see if that helps.
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Depends on the specific make and model of your vehicle. There are two main ways that vehicle heaters work - electric or radiator transfer. If it's electric, then there's an electric heater coil set in the air ducting that can be turned on to varying degrees to heat the air. It'll be done with a variable resistor switch.
The other kind of heater has a heat exchange core that you can shunt radiator coolant to circulate around. In general, the air always goes through the loop, while adjusting the heat can turn a larger and larger flow of water to flow past the heat exchanger. This is why a lot of long steep road grades will have signs telling you to turn on your heater before the climb, even in summer - the core acts like an auxillary radiator to keep you from overheating the engine.
Anyhow, if it's this sort of heater, then the transfer valve could be stuck or sized, or the circulation loop to the air heater exchanger could be blocked. If you don't use the heater often, and the care is on the old side, you could also have a slow leak in the heat exchanger that has dribbled the coolant out of the loop. In some cases, the air bubble in the loop will not be drawn into the passing coolant, the coolant won't enter the loop, and you end up kind of stuck. (or if it does pop out, it can sometimes leave your water pump spinning in an air bubble and you'll overheat really fast.
Hope the generic stuff helps. With more specifics, might be able to point to other things.
You might have a faulty water valve. The hot air in the car is supplied by the engine cooling system. As the engine works, it heats up and water is circulated through the system and kept at a cooling level by the radiator. However, this water is still hot, and by turning on the heat in the car, a valve is opened that allows the hot water to circulate through the heater core inside the car.
This core is in fact just a mini radiator, and air from the blower fan inside the car blows air through this mini radiator, thus supplying hot air in the car.
If you don't want hot air in the car, the heater control operates a valve that shuts off the hot water from the engine. If this valve is faulty, it will allow hot water to circulate through the system. Another possibility is that the cable operating the water valve might be maladjusted or the cable or the lever operating the cable is broken or faulty. It often happens that the outer part of the cables slip and the controls operate so-so but never well.
If the cables to the dashboard controls are not adjusted properly or have started slipping, it could also cause the fresh air vent to not close properly, and this will cause a flow of air even when the controls and the fan are turned to the off position.
You can remove the control panel from the dash and check the cables and controls, but it is a finicky job. Maybe you want to take the car to a mechanic?
I just replaced the water pump on my mothers 2001 A4 It wasn't circulating very well. When I got it out the impellor was spinning on the shaft, it had a crack all the way thru it. Also the pump is part of the timing belt system. If you replace the pump I recommend that you replace the all timing components at the same time. You only want to do this once.
Many cars have a bleeder valve to let out air pocket from the cooling system. Fill the radiator, with the cap off, let it idle at about 1500-2000 rpm's until it reaches normal operating temp. on the gauge, then the thermostat will open allowing the coolant to circulate throughout the engine and radiator. any air will then be gone after about 10 minutes at a fast idle. Top off the coolant, replace cap and recheck the level after a short drive of a few miles and has time to cool. If there is enough trapped air in the system, you will have no heat. The heater box loves to trap a lot of air in it as its like a tiny radiator itself.
mcdevito75 here, Your speaking about the Heater control valve, this allows hot water (antifreeze) into the heater core so as too give you heat, (hot air thru the dash vents). This valve could be sticking, you can try to tap on it with a wrench see if it helps. Before you just change it check all associasted vacumn lines to and from this valve, also check all vacumn lines to the firewall and at the intake manifold for bends, breaks etc.
If your thermostat aint seized shut, its your heater core. You need a new one. Your heater core is another element that makes the antifreeze move in a circular motion. If it aint moving in a circular motion, your car is overheating, meaning that it could be your thermostat, heatercore, or waterpump, but I think that its your heater core. If it is your water pump, your check engine light would come on.
Don't do this on an Audi. They have used a recirc valve because the mass-airflow metering system on the car is telling the engine that a certain amount of air is coming, and the engine is being fueled accordingly. If you use a blowoff valve to purge excess boost air to the atmosphere, the engine will still be expecting to see this air and will be fueling accordingly, and you'll get a rich spike every time you shift. This rich spiking has been proven MANY times to degrade and eventually clog/ruin the catalytic converter and O2 sensors. Some mass-air metered cars (less precise cars in terms of engine management) are fine when DVs are replaced with BOVs, but not Audi/VW cars - using an atmospheric dump will destroy your cat and O2 sensors (plan on $1500+ to fix this).