1995 Ford Contour Logo
Debbie Hetes Posted on Jul 22, 2012

I have a 95 ford contour can't get any spark . changed the spark plugs, fuel pump, and fuel filter, and air filter.

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wendt7572

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  • Posted on Mar 21, 2013
wendt7572
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I'd suggest getting a chilton or Haynes book for your car first. Very handy! If no spark, you can test the coil with an ohmmeter, and test wires to it. Another possibility is wires to crankshaft position sensor shorted, or sensor is bad. This sensor tells computer when to fire, and if bad, you get no spark situation. Also check any fuses that have to do with ignition.

  • Paul Marks Apr 27, 2015

    Hey does it even start rough or not at all if it statr,s then look at changin the coil that iss not firing

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 155 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 ford contour could it be the fuel pump

Sounds like your spending alot for this problem.....if this problem is only one cylinder then changing the fuel pump won't fix it...try removing the plug wire to each cylinder one at a time while running and monitor the RPM drop for each cylinder, they should be EVEN....If not thats the bad cylinder....at this point you need to check the cylinder compression in each cylinder...they should be within 75>80% of the highest reading..if its lower you have mechanical problem..(valves/piston/etc)...if good compression then your problem is fuel/electrical..this requires testers if you got them great.... if not then....at this point I suggest take it to a dealer/shop to save you any more undue parts cost...hope this helps you..GL

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Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on May 13, 2009

SOURCE: changing spark plugs on my 96 ford contour

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000–30,000 miles (32,000–48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection, combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power). When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
  3. Remove the spark plug cover(s), if equipped.
  4. On the 2.5L engine remove the ignition coil assembly from the rear valve cover. See Section 2 for the procedure. Remove the water pump pulley cover.
  5. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
  6. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a vacuum to clean the area. NOTE: Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
  7. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore. WARNING
    Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.
  8. Remove each plug and inspect the plug even if you are replacing them with new ones. An inspection can reveal a great deal of information on the overall condition of an engine. Use the condition charts in this section as a guide. To install:
  9. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
  10. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.
  11. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. A handy tool to use to install spark plugs are the flexible rubber installation tools that are available at most auto parts stores, in place of this tool an old plug wire boot or a piece of fuel line long enough to fit to the plug hole is a good alternative. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again.
  12. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about 1⁄4 turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug, tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
  13. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.
  14. On the 2.5L engine, install the coil pack and the water pump pulley.
  15. Install the spark plug cover(s), if removed.
  16. Connect the negative battery cable.

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Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 12, 2009

SOURCE: MY 98 FORD WINDSTAR STALLS WHEN I IDLE OR COMING

I'd be looking at removing IAC valve, and cleaning it out with throttle body spray cleaner, and checking mounting gasket as well. Usually some success with cleaning it & spray ports it came out of, but if not you may need to replace it.

Anonymous

  • 1486 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2009

SOURCE: car died while driving checked fuel pump ok and

The spark is to weak change the crank sensor.If that does not solve the problem then its the coil pack that needs to be replaced

Anonymous

  • 334 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 08, 2011

SOURCE: i have an 2003 ford expedition that just stopped .

Probably the inertia switch for the fuel pump..You owners manual should show you where its located..See if the button has pop up ..If it has push it back down until it clicks..If it wont stay down then hold it down and see if it will start..If it does you will have to replace it..If thats all good then check the relay for the fuel pump..

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