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if the seal is the type with the toothed ring that the crank angle sensor reads from then you must use the special tool
also very important the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets must be on there timing marks
then you need to mark the crankshaft and the engine block and the seal and the ring in the seal before removing the old seal as a refence when installing the new seal
otherwise the engine wont run
remove gear box and flywheel for starters if the rear seal is in a case then remove that case and fit new seal. If it is a lip seal the remove the old seal and check the crank shaft for a groove. IT is grooved use a "speedie" sleeve ( trade mark name) from a bearing /seal supplier and then fit the new seal using a quality seal fitting tool.
If the rear main seal is the old two piece seal/ felt seal then you will have to virtually remove the crank to do the job properly.
This is a pure shot in the dark. I had a similar problem with an Isuzu Bighorn. The flywheel on my car could be replaced in any one of six positions, and it was replaced incorrectly. There is usually one bolt hole that is not quite in the same position as the others, or a dowel which makes it impossible to fit the flywheel incorrectly., but on the Isuzu there is a timing mark on the flywheel, and it can be fitted incorrectly.
If you've fitted a new flywheel, make sure it is for exactly your car - the timing slots which are picked up by the crank angle sensor could be wrong.
Just a shot in the dark . . .
Leaking rear main seal. Remove the gearbox and clutch, inspect clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing for wear and replace if necessary, remove flywheel. Now that you've gained access to the rear main seal, remove it carefully with a hook or screwdriver, some are bolted in (don't score chip or mark the crank) inspect the crank for a wear grove. If a groove is evident and more than 5 or 6 thou deep, get the crank repaired or speedy sleeve it yourself, re-fit new rear main seal, re assemble, bleed clutch if it's hydraulic and no more leak.
check the PVC system . first. if the crank case doesn't have negative pressure on it the rear main seal will leak. with vehicle running .... remove PVC valve and assure there is sufficient vacuum. if not correct problem by cleaning valve with carburetor cleaner. if you need to replace rear seal remove transmission and flywheel.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE FLYWHEEL REMOVE OIL PAN. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING BOLTS. USING THE PRY POINT LOCATED AT THE EDGE OF THE CRANKSHAFT REAR MAIN SEAL HOUSING SHEAR THE RTV SEALANT. REMOVE THE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL. INSTALL GUIDE PINS INTO THE TWO CRANK SHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING CORNER BOLT HOLES OF THE ENGINE BLOCK.INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT REAR SEAL INSTALLING TOOL ONTO THE REAR OF THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE. APPLY A 0.2 INCH 3MM BEAD OF SILICONE SEALANT TO THE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING . INSTALL THE REAR HOUSING TO THE ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE THE GUIDE PINS AND INSTALL THE HOUSING BOLTS TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO 89 INCH LBS. REMOVE THE REAR SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL FROM THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE.THEN INSTALL OIL PAN AND FLYWHEEL.
Thoroughly clean the flywheel bolts. Coat the first 3 or 4 threads of each bolt with sealant. Install the flywheel, aligning the previously made marks. Install the bolts finger-tight.
Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern and in several passes to the correct tightness:
22R/22R-E manual trans-80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)
14-20 ft-lb for the clutch cover and
50 ft-lb for the transmission mounting bolts.
Since you have the flywheel off, be sure and inspect the rear main seal. Now might be a good time to replace it. Be sure the rear flange of the flywheel is clean before re-install.
Be sure to inspect or, better yet, replace the bronze pilot bushing. I f you don't know how to get it out leave a comment. J
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Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket.
Rear seal removal 3.8L
Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install: NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed. NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated.
NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal.
NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
Hand tighten the bolts.
Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L
Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
1995 940 has a crank position sensor mounted at the top rear of the engine which reads cranks position off the flywheel. Though not adjustable, it is a part which fails often causing weird and intermittent no start/hard start problems as well as other faults. While the part is not too expensive, you do have to crawl on top of the engine to see it, and its a pain to replace. Guess you could remove the hood, but I have changed mine without doing so. Get light on the area,and you can do it. If you are having timing too far advanced issues (running on when killing engine or "pinging" on acceleration several other parts may be suspect. Knock sensor, spark plug issues, carbon buildup, O2 sensor, lean condition and more. Good luck.
I hope you've solved the problem by now, but there are alignment marks on the crank shaft (top pulley), idler (lower side), and cam shaft (smaller, bottom pulley) which should be aligned with stationary marks on the timing belt rear cover.
The belt has marks that align with the aforementioned marks (lines). The double marks on the belt align with the camshaft marks and the single marks with the others.
Loosen the tensioner clamp (nut) to allow the spring loaded tensioner to press on the belt and retighten the nut.
Rotate the crank shaft (clockwise, probably two revolutions) and make sure the pulley marks realign to the marks on the cover (they don't have to realign with the marks on the belt).
Rotate the crank shaft a full revolution once the belt is on and check that alignment is preserved.
Periodically loosen and retension the tensioner nut (access through a hole in the cover) to ensure that tension is maintained as the belt relaxes.