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Re: rear valve cover removal for 94 camry se v6
The best way to remove the rear valve cover is to remove the intake plenum. There is really no other way to do it. It is not a hard job, removing the intake plenum, but, trying to tackle the rear cover without taking off the plenum is almost impossible. If he does remove the plenum, make sure he replaces the plenum gasket. Hope this helps.
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There's probably a bunch of accessories, wiring, ducting, etc. to remove to get to the valve covers, especially the one on the rear side of the engine. Your best bet is to invest in a Haynes or Chilton repair manual (available at your local auto parts store) and it will give you detailed guidance on how to do this.
If it is a 6 cylinder engine you will probably need to remove the intake manifold to replace the rear valve cover gasket. If that's the case the intake manifold also has two hidden screws in the rear against the firewall as well as an EGR exhaust line that must be removed before the intake manifold will come off. I highly recommend you buy a haynes repair manual for your make/model and a flexible mirror-on-a-stick to use for dis-assembly. The spark plugs can be removed after the valve covers are removed (if the valve cover is leaking you will likely have oil pooled around the plugs anyway).
That is your advice? Go get a manual or go to the auto parts store to find out? The person asking if anyone could tell home where the PCV valve is located is looking for a reply from somebody who could answer the question. Doesn't probably need to be pointed to manuals and stores.
Yes, you need a Rocker cover (valve cover) Gasket kit. Remove the valve cover, remove all old O-rings and cover gasket, clean grooves and mating surfaces without gouging or scratching them, put the new gaskets on as per factory recommendations, tighten to the proper torque and you're done. The spark plug holes in the cover are part of the valve cover gasket kit. Any Napa, Car Quest, Pep Boys, Auto Zone will have it.
It must be leaking from under the valve cover.The time for rear valve cover gasket replacement is 2.5hrs and 3hrs for both front and rear, I would replace both at the same time and the gasket.Its advisable to get it done by technician if the coolant is leaking as the coolant is leaking from under the valve cover.Its $300 for parts and services (timing gasket $40, valve cover gasket $140, oil pan gasket set $70, and coolant flush for $50) .''the timing cover is leaking coolant''--engines water pump is behind the cover and it is failing-.as far as parts and labor it sounds reasonable and it all sounds pretty typical for your vehicle.But still get it confirmed by any other tech before getting it repaired.To confirm the estimate cost.Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this
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If the oil is motor oil its either the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, drain plug(depending on the milage) it may be a rear main engine seal.
If its transmission fluid get back to me need a little more detail of path of leak.
Not enough room here and not enough continuity here to step you through this; however:
1. You must obtain a motor service manual from an auto supply store, like AutoZone. The manual is not the general manual, it is a specific motor manual for all VW's. ($30). You can also copy the pages you need at the local Public Library (you have a card, right?) ($2)
2. You will need to purchase a gasket kit (calso called a "gasket set") for your specific motor. ($30)
3. Before you purchase any parts or books, check to see if the auto supply store will "lend" (free) or rent you a torque wrench. You will have to torque the bolts whenever you put the head back on to the engine block. Try not to buy one, you will hardly ever use it.
4. Additionally, it would be a good idea to get a "valve job" ($60) done whenever you remove the head from the engine. The auto supply store may have a "machine shop". Generally, you want to have this done at an auto supply store and not a "auto garage"($150). [save $90].
5. Note that once you finish, the car may run a bit "tight" and overheat a little. It will also put "stress" on your cylinder heads because the valves wil "seat" better than before.
Most important to obtain a motor book. These instructions are obviously not step-by-step.
Please comment ...
1. This is a pretty drastic step
2. Why do you want to do this?
Are you sure the Valve Cover and not just the Valve cover gasket??
Any ways go to Auto Zone and pick up the Valve cover gasket, RTV Silicone selant, Gasket Scraper, and a can of Brake parts cleaner spray.
Disconnect the battery cable from the negative battery terminal, Remove the items which are in your way: Pull the spark plug wires off the spark plugs and remove them from their brackets, remove the PCV hoses, and remove the throttle cable from its brackets and position it out of the way. Loosen the fasteners in this order, I believe there are 11 bolts holding the Valve cover down. Remove one bolt and count to the next 5th bolt and remove it and count to the next 5th bolt and remove it, do this till all the bolts have been removed on a circular pattern. Carefully remove the valve cover from the engine head. If your just going to replace the Valve cover gasket, Remove the gasket from the valve cover. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the valve cover and the engine head. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket, and then use the Brake parts cleaner to clean any remaining oil from the surfaces. If you bought a new Valve cover, Apply RTV silicone sealant to the gasket and engine head around the cutout areas of the valve cover. Note you still have to clean the heads on the engine. Lay the new gasket in the groove in the valve cover. Reinstall the valve cover with its new gasket on the engine head. Tighten the bolts in the same order you removed it in. Do Not Over Tighten the Bolts that hold the Valve Cover down, you'll crush the new gasket and will get an oil leak. Note: If the valve cover does not come off the engine head easily, use a block of wood and a hammer to bump it in an attempt to jar it loose. If absolutely necessary, you may slip a flexible putty knife between the head and the cover to break the seal. If you purchased a valve cover gasket kit, don't forget to replace the small rectangular gasket and the spark plug seals as well while you have the valve cover off the car. You may buy some Brake cleaner to clean off all the oil which has leaked all over the engine. DO NOT attempt to pry the cover off the head using a screwdriver or chisel. Be very careful not to introduce foreign matter into the engine. If you get anything (dirt, metal shavings, bits of old gasket) into the engine. DO NOT over-tighten the valve cover fasteners. On the engine, the fasteners need only 17 to 34 in-lbs of torque. Your A/C system has a leak in it. all system has a slow leak and common, You can get a re-charge kit at Auto Zone to save some money, but if your A/C needs charging again in 2 weeks or less then there is a larger leak due to a bad seal and is cheaper to have a A/C shop locate the leak and replace the seal that has gone bad. Good luck and hope this help. keep me posted, be glad to help.
To replace the valve cover gaskets on a Sienna: The front one is easy. The difficult one is the other side, closest to the firewall. You will need to purchase a new intake plenum gasket, when you buy the new valve cover gaskets, because you MUST remove the intake plenum to remove the rear valve cover. You can NOT get the back side valve cover off of the engine without removing the plenum. Trust me.
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