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Re: 06 camry 2.4 engine removal
You are not going to get the engine and trans out thru the top together. What I do is hold the engine with a fender supported engine hook, and I remove the transmission.
Then I pull the engine out thru the top. Hope this helps.
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If you are talking about the two bolts on top of the bell housing. You will need a three foot extension with a swivel and 15 mm socket. To access the top bolts you need to put your jack with a piece of wood under the transmission pan, jack it up just enough so you can remove the rear cross member then slowly lower your jack supporting the trans. Until you see those top bolts approx. Three inches assuming you have removed all the other bolts on bell housing and the three bolts that attach the flywheel to the pumpkin.
there are 3 or 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. You did not specify what engine you have, s o for the moment I will suggest that you look for either an inspection cover to be removed to access bolts or a small opening at the bell housing. You will need to rotate the engine around to access each bolt. Make sure you have a pan under the area as trans fluid will pour out when you attempt to remove the engine. Depending on which engine I might have suggested removing the driveline and separating it on the ground.....too late now. Let me know how you make out.
this is an older rear wheel drive car you don't need to remove motor, i would along with these instructions get a repair manual (Haynes) for reference purposes, jack up the front of the car , support on frame with jack stands, remove battery cables, remove starter, all electrical plugs on tranny, then remove access panel for torque converter bolts located at lower front of bell housing, after access plate removal rotate torque converter to the point where you can not only unscrew converter bolts but also remove drain plug to drain converter. To stop converter from turning during removal of nuts you must lodge a large screwdriver between the flywheel gear teeth and the engine block at an appropriate location ( at starter location usually) after removing all torque convert.nuts jack up slightly or support trans with trolley jack and 1 ft length of wood under pan, proceed to remove all bell housing bolts except for the top one, remove that one last after removing the drive shaft of course, also make sure you remove the transmission crossmember after jacking up trans slightly. the idea is to allow the tranny to only be attached at the end of removal by the one top bell housing bolt and supported by the trolly jack and two bye four or better 3/4 in thick 1 ft X 1ft plywood board after unscrewing the last bolt the trans. can be pulled back away from the motor and lowered down. the installation is reversal but aligning the torque converter to engine can be problematic sometimes (patience and strength) you can do it!
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Drain the transaxle fluid.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable. On vehicles equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceedingBatteryAir cleaner assemblyThrottle cable from the throttle bodyCruise control actuator cover and connector, if equippedGround wireStarterSpeed sensor connectors, direct clutch speed sensor, and the park/neutral position switch connector on the transaxleSolenoid connector on the transaxleShift control cableOil cooler hosesFront side transaxle mounting boltsFront engine mounting boltsOil cooler line mounting bolts from the front frameUpper transaxle to engine mounting bolts
Fig. Tie the steering rack to the engine support fixture components, as shown-Avalon and Camry Front exhaust pipeEngine side covers and undercoversBoth halfshaftsFront side engine mounting nutRear side engine mounting bolts (remove hole plugs)Left side transaxle mounting boltsSteering gear housingFront frame assemblyRear end plate mounting boltsTorque converter coverTorque converter retaining boltsRemaining transaxle mounting boltsTransaxle
may depend on your engine but the last one i did I was actually able to take all the trans bell housing bolts out exept the top 2(leave them just loose) and of course all the converter bolts. then the trans separated away from the motor just enough for me to reach the flywheel bolts and get them out and do a slip and slide move. no trans removal necessary. tight yes--but still worth it
Its a front wheel drive just separate the transmission. Loosen all the bolts around the transmission bell housing and loosed the converter from the flywheel. The engine will come out and leave the tranny in the car. very easy. Good luck
I just changed a 2.4 in my 96. I pulled the whole thing because I coudn't get at the converter to flywheel bolts. After reading further, I saw information to pull the trans out through the drivers wheel well without the engine. They removed the starter to access the flywheel bolts to the converter.
I haven't tried it but it would make sense and it does make it a lot easier. Without the trans attached, you wouldn't need to remove the master cylinder or beat the sh-t out of the battery tray to get the think out.