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Re: CAN'T GET THE HUB OFF
Hi place the nut back onto the thread just so its level with the end of the thread (thread level with the end of the nut) this is so you dont damage the thread, once done this give it a wack!!! i know it sounds harsh but over time things bind together this just splits it, Hope this helps and please rate accordingly
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They are pressed in from the backside of the wheel hub that the studs stick out from. And not like needing a heavy press- once you get the old studs driven out (usually works with a hammer or small mallet), you can easily draw the new studs right into a snug fit by using the lug nuts, the new ones you just bought along with the 5 new studs, available at most any parts store.
See it's not the lug nuts that are broken, those nuts tighten the tire to the hub by the lug nut studs that the tire fits over. It is the studs themselves that are breaking off. This is common enough that parts stores carry replacements. A chevy dealership might have just your size in stock, if you don't mind paying extra high dealership charges, but it might not be that much for these rather inexpensive items. In a lot of cases, the studs can be removed from the hub as it sits, but there are cases where the hub must be removed from the vehicle for stud replacement. You can eyeball it and pretty much tell if the studs can be removed easily, after you take the wheel (tire) off. For any work on the vehicle, don't rely on the jack. Use blocks or jack-stands always.
If you can find just the studs and not have to buy the whole hub assembly, screw a lug nut on flush to the stud and drive it out with a hammer, make sure its in a position to have room on the back side. Put in new stud and with a few spacers tighten a lug nut to seat it.
A puller probably won't help because there is nothing to pull against. a BFH (big f----- hammer) and a little heat and the hub assy. should come out. It is not a press fit, but over the years the rust makes them stick pretty tough.
Replacing the front wheel bearing/hubs can be a big job for the inexperianced. Briefly...
Remove brake caliper assembly, do not remove brake line.
Remove caliper bracket.
Remove brake rotor.
Unplug ABS sensor.
Remove the large axle nut.
Press axle out of bearing (may need special tool)
Remove the 3 bearing bolts and remove bearing.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
To remove that hub you will destroy the bearing. Because you have to remove it with a slide hammer. It is not necessary to remove the hub to change the studs. Remove the caliper, caliper bridge and rotor. Using a hammer simply knock out the stud or studs you want to replace. Put new stud in and using a sleeve that has a bigger diameter than the stud (I use a big nut, like the one on the axle) put big nut over stud and screw lug nut on stud and tighten until head of stud is flush with hub. Re-install rotor, caliper bridge and caliper. Hope this helps.
You have to remove the hub to remove the bolts, if they won't come out by rotating the hub.
To remove the hub, take the cap off at the center of the hub (the cap would be poking you a the center of the hub, and is about 2 inches in diameter.
There should be a cotter key or something preventing the spindle nut from turning. Remove it. If there is a cover over the spindle nut, remove it. Take the spindle nut off. Pull lightly on the hub, and it will come off. Watch for the front bearing to pop out.
To reassemble, put hub back on spindle, put bearing and washer against bearing, thread on spindle nut and tighten while rotating hub. Back off 1/2 to 1 flat add cover (if used) and install cotter key.
dont take the hub off take off the rotor and the caliper hit the stud with a hammer and it will come out just turn it to get to the next one to put them in put the stud in and put an over size nut on the stud then the lug nut then as you tighten it it will pull through