Not Sure What Engine to Replace Iron Duke in Fiero
Hello I need some advice on what my options are for replacing a knocking 2.5 L (VIN code: R) in a 1985 Fiero Sport.It has the 5-speed transmission.This will be a daily driver.I enjoy driving the car, except for nearly getting run over due to poor acceleration. Reliability and fuel economy are still important to me so I would was thinking of sticking with a 4 cyl, but as long as I’m going to the trouble of replacing the engine, I would like to get better acceleration/performance, if I can afford it.(I also plan to upgrade the breaks and suspension eventually.)I’m not going to be street racing or anything, I just want to be able to keep up with most cars on the road. One concern I have is with putting back another Iron Duke…I like the idea of getting something more modern and efficient and even slightly lighter, but I suspect it would cost more and require a different cradle, wiring, ECM, and maybe a different transmission.Is there a more modern 4-cyl that would bolt directly in that would be better?Or would an Iron Duke that been rebuilt with better rods, maybe a performance crank/cam, etc be a good idea? I'm open to upgrading to a 6 cyl, but I want decent fuel economy. I’d like to know what the best options are and generally the pros and cons of each.Thanks.
Re: Not Sure What Engine to Replace Iron Duke in Fiero
I don't know if you listened to the insane person who previously answered but in a fiero w/o any mods you can bolt in a 3.4 V6 (1992-1995 Camaro/Firebird) or a 4.9 Cadillac V8, four cylinders I'm fuzzy on but I think cavaliers, corsicas etc. engines bolt in, you can do an ecotech but it requires ***loads of work. There is always the Northstar or 350 V8 option ;-] The point is, with a fiero, any engine can go in, just amounts to hours and dollars...
Re: Not Sure What Engine to Replace Iron Duke in Fiero
You say fuel economy and indicate cost is a concern. I recommend staying with either a good used 4 cyl like you have now or if you can afford to buy a re-built or have your own rebuilt then that may be the best choice with the least hidden costs. If you upgrade to a 6 cyl then the transmission will likely have to be changed, plus there are lots of hidden costs you won't find out about till half way through.
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No you dont have a safety switch or what is called a inertia switch,Just be glad,because the fuel tank is under the passenger and driver seat and its usually the Fiero that goes in flame regardless of who hit who.Something else is causing the no start, The Fiero has a oil pressure switch that keeps the fuel pump on. this is in the center of the engine block at the rear,Make sure that that cannection is on,other than that someting got knock off, You also have a fuel pump fuse in the engine juction fuse box inspect that fuse make sure its not open,Just turn the key on you shoould be able to hear the fuel pump turn on at least
p0339 is crank shaft position sensor related error. you need to be sure that its wiring is not damaged and it is not shorted somehow. if it is broken or getting broken, car may stall, or wont start att all.
p0113 is for intake air tempoerature sensor errors. that sensor measures air ehich enters the engine. it is least important. its effect may not be noticable when weather is not extremely cold.
p0334 is for knock sensor on engine. it prevent predetonation due to ignition conditions appear. it is felt when engine is under load like climbing, and engine speed is low. check for wires if it is ok replace sensor.
we can tell that temperature sensor is not directly effects other sensors. but knock sensor and crank position sensor is to important for engine. if you have no starting issues, even cold or warm engine, invest on knock sensor first.
The knock sensors (one for each cylinder head on the V6) are located on the inside of the cylinder heads, in order to replace them the upper intake manifold must be removed. It is always recommended on this engine family that not only replace the 2 knock sensors but that you also replace the short sub wiring harness to the knock sensors from the main engine harness as it is many times the a common cause of the knock sensor code(s) in the 1st place.
P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2) A knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor wasn't operating properly, so that it was always indicating a knock, the engine computer's response may have been to change the ignition timing on your engine. Knock sensors generally bolt into or thread into the engine block. This P0330 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly. Other knock sensor related DTC codes include P0325.
Symptoms: You may notice drivability problems including a lack of power and perhaps some hesitation. There may also be other symptoms.
Causes: A code P0330 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: The "B" knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit
Possible Solutions: Check the resistance of the knock sensor on bank 2 (compare it to factory specs) Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor Replace the knock sensor on bank 2
The code 55 you are getting, in Toyota terms, as as follows:
"No number one knock sensor signal to the ECU fo four crank revulutions under these 2 conditions: Coolant temperature 140 degrees F or more; Engine speed between 1600 and 5200 RPM."
This indicates a failed (or a loose) knock sensor on the Right Bank of the engine. Since the knock sensor is basically a piezo-electric crystal, not continuity test can be performed with the intake manifold installed.
You can check the continuity form the Knock Sensor wires to the ECM, but, this may not prove useful to you.
Unfortunately, you are going to have to pull the intake, and check the knock sensor wiring integrity. If the connector is good, and the sensor is tight, I would suggest replacing the sensor. Actually, if you were in my shop, I would suggest replacing them both, as the whole intake will have to come off if the other sensor fails. Better to replace them both at once, than to pull the intake again.
We here at FixYa hope that this helps you out, and saves you some future reoair dollars. Thanks for choosing FixYa for advice.
Make sure the spark plug wires are on right (propper firing order), and check the TPS sensor. Are there any exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks? Did you use the original intake manifolds and Holley throttle body? If not you need to replace the PROM chip with the one from the donor car.
code 43 throttle position sensor out of adjustment.not working.if you replace knock sensor and it still spark knocking.make sure the wire connector is not broken.go to higher octane gas .make sure engine timing is correct. also make egr valve is opening when it suppose to it will cause detonation.you will need a scanner to check tps and egr valve.