Question about 1997 Buick LeSabre
For the last 3 months I have been having issues with my 97 LeSabre starting, where it has required 3-5 attempts before finally starting and occasionally failing to fully turn over when "successful". It also requires me to go harder on the accelerations in the past week than it has in the past and an engine code for fuel pressure has come on within the last week as well. Recent Replacements/Maintenance: 2 months ago oil change with engine cleaning supplement, 2 months ago fuel injector cleaner, 2 months ago fuel filter replacement, 2 months ago spark plug replacement, and 2 weeks ago crank shaft position sensor replacement.
Have you checked the catalytic converter? After 20 years they do pug up causing some of the problems you describe
Posted on Nov 20, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: buick lesabre nightmare
Need to get a scan tool and look at the data stream while it is running for alot more info.Also any trouble codes.Sounds like initially,the engine isn't getting any fuel.I would have a pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail on the engine,so i could monitor the fuel pressure while all this is going on.Items to look at on the data stream would be timing,what timing is the PCM commanding for the engine.Also,have you checked for continuos power feed to the coils during this no start condition,and fire at the plugs while cranking.You could possibly still have spark,but maybe it is extremely weak?I have seen bad ignition switches cause weird problems before too.Many things power up through the ignition switch,just a thought.Have also seen bad PCM's cause strange problems..38 volts is a little on the low side for GM.Usually see those at,at least .50 and up,and rise steadily while pressing the throttle,up to just under 5.0 volts.Potentiometer with 5 volt supply.Vacuum leak can be checked with engine running at a steady idle speed,spray brake cleaner all around the intake manifold and listen for engine speed change.
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
to properly clean and test the egr valve you should remove it from the car. disconnect vacuum, elect connectors, and check the gasket surface both on the manifold and on the base of the valve. you will need to buy or cut a new gasket most likely. when you apply vacuum to the control inlet, you should see the valve lift away from the seat. I use brake cleaner and compressed air to spray clean and blow out the valve just to test it and then go from there depending on what you find ---- one of the vacuum switches that controls it or a faulty vacuum line is a likely possibility also ---- so you should check them also. a vacuum pistol comes on really helpful here.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
It is a sign of a clogged convertor, but i happen to own the same car (with a series 2 3800) and had the same symtpoms going on when i bought if for the wife. Mine turned out to be a Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR Valve).
To kind of get a feel for what is going on with the convertor, you can have someone help you but sitting in the drivers seat, with the car running. You go behind the car near the tail pipe. Now have the other person rev it up a little, not to much though. Put your hand but the tail pipe to see what kind of pressure the exhaust has. You can use another vehical to do the same thing to feel what things are supposed to feel like. If the convertor is plugged, the pressure of exhaust coming out will be a lot softer than it should be.
If after checking it as discribed above, if you feel it is plugged, grab a hammer, and bang the heck out of it. This will break up and loosen the clogged part without have to replace it.
There is no really good way to test a EGR vavle without a special computer. Replacing it however, does seem to me as the most likely repair for this vehical. It is located on the top of the drivers side of the motor. It look like a cylinder with a wire coming out of the cap, and is held on by 2 13mm nuts.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Multiple engine misfire is related to the coils and the ignition control module. I have a 2002 with the 3.8 engine. It has three coils. I just went through this problem. I bought one coil and tried it in each position with no improvement. It was the ignition control module. Mine is located under the three coils. A relatively easy item to replace. Cost about $140.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
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