Ed is right, there is lots of screws and pop off caps, Have some tape ready to stick them to the panels you are taking off. And write down the succession as you take them off. I had 4 sections in my 1992 4Runner and then the seat belt in back had to be unscrewed from roof. Good Luck. Oh and I had glass in the compartment in the back over rear tires, found it like 1year later!
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It sounds like they didn't get all of the glass out of the hatch. There are "pockets" of space inside the hatch frame area. They may not have removed or cleared all the glass out from the inside. This may involve removing the hatch from the car and dumping it out. Not impossible, but very impractical.
look for a
2-in the rear glass maybe one of the lines is broken or disconected
also if you or previous owner might have removed window tint with a razor blade that can damage those lines that heat up inspect all the lines if one is interrupted or broken try fixing it with optional stuff that you can get from any autoparts dont know the name but if you tell them what you are trying to fix they know the stuff you are suppose to use good luck.
Removed the inspection cover for the lock mechanism on the inside of the back hatch and used a screw driver to manually unlatch the door while someone else was pulling on the handle. It turned out there was a lot of glass around the pocket where the lock mechanism was possibly binding the lock
The rear window guides can be ordered from your Toyota dealer. As you saw, there are two in the vehicle. If you buy one, buy both. You then just have to pull the rear door apart and replace the old with the new. A bit fiddly but not beyond most people. They were about $70A each, if I recall.
well your gettint limited on options!! If you choise to opent he sliding rear window, you need to know that you stand a chance of breaking the glass!! I would do some calling around first to find out the cheapest repair plan!! call a lock smith and price him to open the doors from inside out!! call to price replace a rear window!!
I suspect that the back door ECU (the relay box that you speak of) is bad.
Here is how you check:
With the Key On, you should have 12 VDC in the Solid YELLOW wire going into the box.
Also, You should have power in the solid BLUE wire going into the box.
Operating the switches should transmit power to the BLUE with RED trace, and the VIOLEt with WHITE tracer.
If you have the right power as described abobe, the box is indeed bad. This is a dealer item only, cannot buy one at the local parts store. Sorry. Hope this helps.