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check the drain plug magnet for metal bits. Mostly you can remove the rear extension housing with out removing the gear box and you will find a small gear on the cluster shaft ( bottom shaft) and a larger gear on the out put shaft ( tail shaft) . Check that the shifter fork is actually moving the larger gear or gear dog into 5th gear (Fork loose on selector rail) or check that there are still teeth on the smaller gear as excessive high speed under load will rear out the teeth
There is no way the ring gear will hit the starter pinion unless the fly wheel bolts on the crank shaft or loose allowing the flywheel to run out of true. If you have had clutch/ rear seal work done lately the fly wheel will only fit in one position and if that was ignored at some time then the fly wheel will run out and touch the starter pinion.. I would also check the adjustment on the starter pinion as it has to be set by the lever pivot to a correct distance or it will touch the teeth of the ring gear
Interesting problem although aggravating. Take a bottle of Dawn washing up liquid,(or equivilent) and drive the vehicle to the nearest railroad crossing. Squirt the soap all over the mounting rubbers on the shocks and anti roll /sway bar. Drive across the railroad crossing and listen for the noise. if none then you have narrowed the search. next do a simple process of elimination regarding the soaped rubber mountings etc.
However,a Dodge noise making rattle when crossing any uneven surface can be caused by the front grille securing fixtures coming loose and allowing the grille to rub and vibrate on the sheet metal. I have an older Dodge with stainless steel wiring fitted to resolve that same problem! It's not an obvious fault but it really is an aggravating one.
Put a sheet metal screw between the mirror and mirror body below the mirror. This will allow the mirror to still break free and swing if you hit something kinda hard, but will keep it from moving freely. There is no other way to tighten it. It's just a case of the spring becoming fatigued.
last question as my back hurts from sitting on computer ,right first lift each wheel up and check the wires to the sensors on the wheels ,their is a metal ring with teeth on and what often happens is the wire breaks to the sensor or the metal ring comes loose on the shaft and just spins around .Try this first before you go to a garage who would weld the ring up and charge you for a new computer or something
that is a common problem on the escort,it got so bad at our shop we took an old cv shaft that we took out of a escort we used a metal grinder and cut the center of the splined end of the shaft so it would fit around the keeper pin inside the tranny and it allows you to hit the end of the shaft and forcing it out but ofcourse you have to have atleast one axle out to knock out the side your having trouble with other than that a 5 pound hammer may help
no check all 4 wheels for the metal rings fitted to drive shafts that have little squares on then this is what the sensoirs read from ,make sure that one of them hasnt come loose and it spinning around ,if loose spot weld it to the shaft
This also happened to my '95 mustang 5.0L I was actually driving when it lost power. Take the cap off of the distributor and see if the shaft wiggles. The distributor shaft in the mustangs are the weakest point of the engine. If the shaft wobbles the rotor will wobble hitting the points and may break the rotor. All the metal grinding will put little metal shavings in the housing where the magnetic pick-up will attract them, this is the problem. You can replace the magnetic pick-up but if the shaft is moving around you will need a new distributor all around.