Question about 1988 Ford F 150

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I need to find the wiring specs for a distributor and coil on a 1980 International 404 engine. Can you help me? I have to choose a make and model, but they have nothing to do with what I am looking for.

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  • bruceemon May 11, 2010

    Send me the vin and correct make and I will get you a wiring diagram. If you're not sure of the exact make it could be a problem. If you don't have the vin for that truck I won't be able to tell where it was made.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    To old, sorry.


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Maybe this will help. I'm not sure what vehicle this is but I did a search and this is what I came up with..

Click here for book

Good luck.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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I'm having trouble getting any spark

Check there is 12 volts + terminal of coil , Check the coil HT cable resistance is within specs , remove the center Ht cable from the distributor , hold it a 1/4 inch from the engine block, have a helper engage the starter , a good spark should jump from the cable to the engine block. also check the spark plug Ht cables and renew if not to specs.

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1996 sierra vortec 350.engine cranks but wont start.acts like it trys to fire when you let off key

First thing I would check on a GM brand truck that wont start is the fuel pressure. Many parts stores have tools you can borrow or rent. Head there and grab a fuel pressure tester. And ask them if they know the specification for fuel pressure on your truck. If this is not an option you can always try squirting a shot or two of carb cleaner or a shot of starting fluid. (Be careful! Highly flammable stuff!!) If the squirt helps it start and run briefly look into the fuel pump and/or wiring circuit. If the fuel pressure is below spec but there, odds are u need to replace fuel pump and filter. If there is no pressure could be bad fuel pump or wiring.
if fuel pressure is within spec then next thing to look at is ignition. Pull the wire off the distributor that comes from the coil and place it next to a clean piece of metal on the engine. While cranking the engine look to see if the spark is jumping from the wire end to the clean metal. If so the coil is good. Next try a wire off one of the spark plugs the same way. Then u know the distributor is working. If the truck is old and hasnt had a tune up in a while that would be a good place to start also. New distributor cap and rotor and new spark plugs and wires would be a good starting point. Making sure the plug wires are in proper order on the distributor and going to the proper spark plugs could also be the cause. Another thing to check is the timing of the ignition from the distributor with a timing light. Hope this is helpful

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need to know if its a HEI cap and rotor or not. HEI caps have the coil built into them , an all in one ignition as compared to a external cylindrical coil.
you need to know that. either the distributor cap is a huge hurken thing (HEI) or it has an external coil somewhere or the cap has a ninth distributor hole in the middle of the cap to put a coil. wire.
after you figure out which one it is then you have to either go to and study chevy wiring or buy a haynes manual for the similar vintage engine. for the external coil I would try a chilton manual for a chev truck before 1972. for HEI anytime thereafter. I may be off by a few years on the age of the engine. but hopefully you got an idea of what to do, or just google chev engine wiring? and study away.
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Wow, this kind of a problem can drive ya nuts. There are 2 different engines for this car, one is a model 4A-FE and the other is a 7A-FE. The problem sounds like a coil breakdown..I know it sounds nuts because it happens when you hit a bump, but it could be coincidental to a coil breaking down when under load. You will need a decent Ohm Meter to do the following. Check the coil primary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 1.11 - 1.75 ohms], then check the secondary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 9.0 - 15.7 kilohms]. If either of these values is out of spec, the coil will need to be replaced. If everything is OK, next check the air gap between the signal rotor and the pick up coil projection (CAUTION; use a non-ferrous feeler paper, brass or plastic). For a 4A-FE and a 7A-FE engine it should be .008 - .0016 in. If this air gap is not correct you have to replace the distributor housing. I hope that this helps to find / fix, or eliminate the distributor. If all this is OK check the lead wire from the could have a broken wire inside of the plastic cover. If still no luck, write back and we'll try again.

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Why not eBay? you may be able to find a "lightly" used harness from an appropriate dodge or Chrysler product that uses your engines?
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I would go back and get it on TDC and see where your rotor is. Make sure you have it in time. Then you can run a hot wire from the fuse box to the distributor that would be hot only with key in on position. That should get you running, after that if you wanted to trouble shoot your old wire or just leave it with new, and tape up old wire just in case.

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If the Electrical system is grounding out, particularly the hot lead to the coil. then you will fry coils. Check your Positive leads at the fuse box for continuity to ground. 1st check the ignition wire i.e. red wire going to your coil. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil or distributor (depending where your coil is located). If it has continuity to ground, then go to your fuse box and pull out all your fuses and test each terminal for continuity to ground until you find which circuit is grounding out and polluting the rest of the positive circuitry. If it is only the ignition hot wire then you know that is where the problem is. If it is coming into the fuse block from another positive source, isolate that source by not allowing it to come into contact with + current.

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