After two alternators and one knock sensor replaced in the last 3-4 months, my battery has started to give me some problems. I'm not a car guru, but I realize the correlation between the alternator and battery.. Scenario: Battery dies. Charged battery overnight using AC-powered charger. Car runs the next day, but battery is dead by the following morning. Charged again, and the car runs (for now) but now I'm worried about the source of the problem. With the economy being what it is, I'm already down to no insurance and barely holding on to my car, and I would love to keep it if I can diagnose this problem. - Please Help Me in Seattle
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Re: '96 SVX Battery death
First off charging systems ****, but they are simple, the battery has been overworked most likely, when the alternator craps out then the car is only running on the battery, the battery is only normally used to kick the starter over then the alternator takes over, so when the battery is discharged then manually recharged then discharged, on and on it creates an overworked environment. pull the battery and have an autoparts store check it for free, if it tests good than move to the altornator when the car is running the battery should read 14-14.5 volts since the altornator is charging it. if this is not the case you need another alternator, if you battery is dieing from sitting, you have a parisidic drain which means that something in your cars system is not turning off and draining your battery while it sits, to test for this take your negitive cable off and check amperage between neg bat cable and negative post if your amps are more than a couple miliamps with the doors shut all electric (interior lights, ect.) are off then you need to start pulling fuses till the amperage goes down, when that happens then you know what system area you have the short in, then work from there with what ever componants are ran with that fuse. if you have any questions just let me know erik-Mcdonald@student.kirkwood.edu
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It sounds like a bad crank sensor or a cam sensor,regardless your first step before throwing anymore parts into it is to have it scanned.This will a least narrow the problem down to a specific area.
Ask for a print out of the scan. good luck
The core problem is probably the alternator. It stopped working and then the vehicle has to operate solely on the battery. This doesn't last long, As the battery voltage dropped, different sensors and systems started failing due to low voltage, This is what gives the various weird indications.
Hello! The trouble code is telling us that the voltage to the Camshaft Positioning Sensor (CMP) is low...The connector that plugs into the sensor could be open, the sensor itself defective or low battery input to the sensor...See diagrams below as to sensor location...Lets eliminate...The wire colors in the CMP plug are...Pink...Black/White...And Light Blue/Black...If you connect a voltmeter to the Pink wire you must read 5 volts...Push a safety pin into the rear of the in-place connector into the Pink wire so it contacts the pin that the wire is crimped to...(+) probe of meter clipped to that pin and (-) probe to bare metal chassis ground...Key on...Meter set to read 5 volts...If 5 volts is present that eliminates a battery fault...Next push the safety pin into the Light Blue/Black wire...Turn on key...(+) probe to that pin...Should read about 2.4 volts...If you read nothing, or less than 1 volt the sensor is defective OR the connector pins to it are fouled...Pull plug and inspect both male/female pins for oil...corrosion...etc...Radio Shack sells a product called DeOxit...It's the best (no touch) spray contact cleaner...Send results...PS...Best meter to use is a digital one...$20...Guru...saailer Remove engine cover:
CMP at top of drawing with timing chain cover removed for clarity...
check for vacume leaks listen for a hissing sound if you here one but cant pin point it you can use a spray bottle of gas of can of ether both very flamable so be gentle and spray around the sound when the engine revs up theres your leak
thats where i would start
There sounds to be a problem with your alternator. If the car went dead every few hours or week I'd say its the battery. But if the car lasts 3 months between problems, then you're battery is a champ despite fighting a losing battle. Do you ever take long trips that coincide with this problem? If your battery isn't recharging then it could drain to dead on a longer trip. There could also be an electrical problem like a bad ground that only shorts bad every once in a while. Read the voltage when the battery is connected to the car with everything off and then again when the battery is disconnected from the car. Also, have you had the alternator checked? Have you inspected the engine for bad grounds? Have you tried buying one of those battery saver devices? Hope this helps.
It sounds like you replaced the alternator because it was not charging the battery.
(Although no alternator can charge a shorted battery).
So now after replacing the alternator, the battery is still dead and
can't be expected to charge until the engine runs for awhile.
Well....the car starts and cranks from only the battery, not the alternator.
You could jump start the car with jumper cables from another vehicle to give the alternator a chance to do its job.
I suggest charging the battery from a stand-alone battery charger (about $50 any auto parts store, etc ).
You have not said anything yet that verifies that you have tested the battery.
If your battery is more than 2 or 3 years old, you may want to replace it.
They typically don't last much longer than that.
(By the way, I've never heard of a "crank sensor")