1998 dodge ram van 1500 3.9l stalls shuts off while driving
I have replace with new fuel pump, ignition,dist cap and pick up. seems that when my fuel guage reads half or 1/4 left i have this problem. fuel pressure is ok. if i leave alone for awhile and come back to start it starts fine then will shut of and not turn on for awhile.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
could be your coil, but can also be internal, have you replaced both the air & fuel filters ? if so, dump some good fuel injector cleaner into tank when half empty , top off with 91-92 octane fuel, see how that works for you, do some highway driving, stop & go traffic creates problems, todays fuel w/ethonal is bad for older cars, be sure to have code cleared from ecm !
My Ram recentlystarted running horribly to the point of the engine not even reaching 2000rpms. I was fearing the worst but it turned out to be the catalytic converter stopped up. I fixed it and it runs good as new.
You have not run a OBD2 electronic engione control fault code test, get a code reader and do that first and don't replace anymore parts until that is done and you have the fault codes and have done the proper diagnostics for each code.
it sounds like the fuel pump is quitting once it gets warm. I've seen this plenty of times. When you turn the key to on, not all the way to start you should hear the fuel pump humm for a second or 2. When it quits on you try this to see if you get that humming. I bet the pump is dying, specially since everything else is new. Good luck and I hope this helps you.
Replace the distributor's magnetic pickup located inside the distributor surrounding the distributor shaft, the only other thing thankfully on this ignition system if memory serves me on the f 150 straight six 300 cu inch is the dura spark ignition control box, of course do the obvious tune up parts replacement dist.cap rotor,plug , sparkplugs before spending the $40.00 - $50.00 bucks on the dist.. pick up, you may have a weak a fuel pump check for adequate fuel pressure at carb 7 - 10 lbs.
Sorry in the delay getting back to you.......on....Check for injector pulse. Look into the throttle body......where the air goes into the engine....in the top,middle of the engine ......you will have to remove the air filter......and look for fuel spray from the injectors...."when the truck stops running on you"....If no spray......you have fuel problem which may lead to the ignition module or dist pick up. No RPM pulse......no spray. If spray is present......check for lack of spark which again may lead to the ignition module or dist pick up. Just carry a spark plug with you and pull a wire...insert plug,,,ground plug and look for spark. Let me know what you have found. Edwards,Ont Canada
First off you can test the fuel pump 2 ways
1.have a assistant turn on the ign to on while you listen for the pump to run at the gas cap (gas cap off).
2.find the valve on the fuel rail looks like a a/c or valve stem,take the cap off and press the needle and if fuel comes out then it's not the fuel pump.
But from a lot of EXPERIANCE on dodge engines the stalling and restarting issue is ignition related i.e crank or cam sensor which will throw a diagnostic code of engine misfire xxx cylinders.
So If its one of those sensors then you will not have any spark,and staring fluids will not fire the engine.
As for the headlights flickering they get there power through a relay straight from the battery,so I would look at the relays under the hood and find the one for the headlights and swap it out with the horn relay as most of the relays will have the same numbers.
The crank sensor is about 70.00 and the cam sensor is about 50.
depending on where you get them (dealer or aftermarket)
the cam sensor is the round plastic thing under the dist cap,and the crank sensor is on the pass side under the head into the top of the transmission bell housing and it's a 2hr job to change because of it's location is really hard to get to.
Hint -take the breather off and place a rag over the intake and a board from the radiator core support to the intake to lay on,it has 2 10mm bolts and the wiring harness unplugs from underneath.