FOR A "2006 NISSAN SENTRA" & ANY OTHER MODEL THAT HAS A SMOOTH SOCKET HOUSING, WITHOUT A RATCHET END TO USE A CONVENTIONAL INNER TIE ROD REMOVER TUBULAR TOOL... THIS IS THE TOOL YOU HAVE TO USE... I FOUND ONE AT AUTO ZONE AS A LOANER TOOL...
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Loosen lugnuts, pull e-brake, jack up front end and use jackstands to support vehicle, remove wheel, disconnect tie rod, remove caliper and get it up and out of your way with rope or wire (allows for more room cuz its tight in there), loosen nut that holds ball joint on to control arm and this requires a 3 foot prybar to push the ball joint down after you loosen nut as far as you can before you cant loosen anymore cuz it hits bottom of axle bootthen loosen more and use bar to push down, repeat until the nut is off and the balljoint should slide down and out of control arm with a little elbow grease. Slap the new BJ in and put on nut until tight. reconnect the tie-rod, caliper, tire and head to the other side and replace that BJ too. there is no ryme or reason to do just one side for the $20-30 cost of part and hour of labor at the max per side to not do both sides at once, plus you will have to go get the car aligned as you disconnected the ti-rods and replaced BJ's which throws off alignment. Save your self the hassle and dont pay for an alignment again when the other side gets dangerously worn out which woudnt be too long after the first one becomes a problem.
That loud humming noise you are hearing is the wheel bearing. After hitting the curb the bearing took a hit and became a little wobbly and over time the grease has seeped out and started causing the humming.So just replace the wheel bearing and anything else that might be loose or damaged like the tie rod and ball joints. if those issues are not corrected it might happen again down the road. good luck and glad to shed some light on your issue
BECOS YOU HAVE DIFFRENT ARM ROD FOR THE INSIDE AND THE OUT SIDE TAKE OFF THE PANEL AND YOU WILL SEE IT WHEN PULL THE INSIDE PANEL OFF ,PULL THE HANDLE AND YOU WILL SEE WHERE IT SUPPOSE TO BE AND JUST REPLACE IT
You will need to contact your local auto parts store to get price for the tie rod ends.My flat rate manual listed them at $65 a piece but this is an old price.
The labor time listed for these are as follows:
1 inner tie rod end is listed at 1.4 hours,if you replace both it is listed at 2.0 hours.
1 outer tie rod end is listed at 1.1 hours,if you replace both it is listed at 1.4 hours.
These times include resetting the toe only. If you want a complete alignment you deduct 0.4 hours labor and charge full alignment price.
Hope this helps. If you need anything else,let me know. Thanks,Chuck
Turn the weels opposite the side you want to do, remove splitpin on tie rod end, loosen locknut half a turn, remove ball joint, remove old rubber and replace with new. Reverse whole process, and you're done. Marco 0736775896
Purchase tie rod ends that are specific to your Honda model and year, for tie rod ends vary from model year to model year. The tie rod ends often come with nuts and cotter pins (glorified bobby pins).
Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires, but don't remove them. Jack up your vehicle, then support it securely on jack stands. Remove the tires.
Use a wrench or piers to loosen the outer tie rod's locking nut, but do so by only 1/8th of a turn. Mark the tie rod end's position on the threaded portion of the tie rod with paint or a marker.
Take out the cotter pin or key and use a wrench or pliers to loosen and remove the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end's spindle.
Separate the tie rod and the steering knuckle with a tie rod puller.
Grasp the tie rod with a wrench while you screw off the tie rod end. Make sure you keep track of the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write that number down. It'll help you when you install the replacement tie rod end.
Replace the Tie Rod End
Put a coat of anti-seize compound on the threaded portion of the tie rod end, and screw on the lock nut for the tie rod end.
Screw on the tie rod end, making sure you do it in the same number of turns as it took to remove the original tie rod end (see Section One, Step 6).
Slip the tapered end of the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to 29 to 35 foot pounds. If your tie rod end doesn't come with a castellated nut, tighten that nut to 32 foot pounds.
Install the new cotter pin and tighten the tie rod end's lock nut. Repeat Sections 1 and 2 for the other tie rod end.
Reinstall the tires, tighten the lug nuts and get the Honda aligned.