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the trick ? would be is what system is causing it like fuel,electrical,or ignition.the ignition coil pack can cause an internal short in the windings causing ignition shutdown.ill start by checking for spark after she shuts down that would narrow it down to the fuel pump and or possible relay failure they also carry a coil just like the ignition coil pack.Fan and oil filter would not solve this matter.in addition make a fuel pump check also they normally come on for about two seconds when key is switched to the on position.
I had the same problem a few years ago and it was the coil pack breaking down. If it starts missing before it dies id get a new coil pack. Before u buy a coil pack you need to get it warm again and just before it dies look underneath the vehicle to see if the catalytic converter is starting to get hot, if it is hot and usually getting red hot, its stopped up.It will fool you in to thinking that the coil is bad.
do you put your foot on the accelerator while cranking ???
rotors flood easily so dont be too worried if everything checks out
- voltage to coil packs are correct
- coil pack resistance is correct
- autochokes not jammed shut
- plugs are the correct type
- ht leads are measuring under 20k ohms
- what size fuel injectors are fitted...standard? a/market? impedence higher or lower than original? is cc rating higher tahn factory??
Check the injectors, make sure that they arent corroded aswell, and there is a way to convert vane into Maf but i wouldnt do it since they do the same thing. Just make sure the contacts on the inside of the potentiometer are not obstructed and and smooth. IF it is old then it would be ok to replace it. Check the wiring for any cracks to the vane airflow. Also the fuel pressure regulator check that and see waht the pressure is there with it on and off. That might be bad too.
well,when you turn off the rotary it leaves oil and gas.so when you start it up, it burns off the oil you left causeing blueish smoke. same problem with flooding,when you drive short distance , warmup incorrectly or if use synthetic oil.to fix the cause of flooding(i have the same vehicle and problems)let it warm up for at least 15 min.there is also a fuel pump wire next to the fuse box located above the brake pedal.then you tap a switch from the fuel pump to your interior.the reoson being is so whenever you come to a stop to park flip the swith.that allows the rotar to burn the fuel left in the pump witch will make your rx7 to stutter out and die.when you start it back up ,flip the swicth back on and it will take an extra second for it to crank over.1 more thing,check your oil every 2-3 fills on gas and change oil every 2000 miles.also redline it at least one a week. i hope i just solved your problem because i love my 87 non turbo and know how you feel.if you want to look at cheap aftermarket parts for rx7 then go to srmotorsports.com/rx7guru.com is a guy that test parts to tell people wats good and cheap for rx7s.i would recomend roll cage and 5 point harness-seats.good luck with your rx7 bro
I tried a Solution used from a previous posting... The automatic transmission fluid, (ATF), trick. After doing everything in the mainianace manual, without a positive outcome... I tried it.. 3 capfulls in each trailing spark plug hole... but it must be after or just after the apex went past the hole... remember turn the shaft manually until the apex passes. Also remember their are six apex seals, 3 on the front rotor and 3 on the back, thats 18 cap fulls total. Don't worry if some drips or pours out after putting it in the spark plug hole. I did it with a med seringin. but be careful the end could break off in the plug hole.(don't ask) Just make sure you do all six just after each apex. Then take both leading plugs off and spray them with starter fluid and put them back just after you spray them. This, I was told, was to make sure the car fires on the first start. IT works..... This is also a trick after having starting problems when the car floods....... That why I waited so long to try it, I did need it for flooding..... This swells up the seal... they got dried out from sitting at least four years... ATF soaks into them and helps the compression...