Both starter and battery have been replaced along with the cable that runs from the starter to to battery. last winter it did the same thing and the flywheel and starter both had to be replaced then it worked again until it got cold again. took the starter off and had it tested. the starter is good. tried to pop the clutch but it didnt work.
Are you asking where the throw out bearing is located?
If so, removal of your transmission is necessary to access it. It will be on your input shaft of your tranny behind your clutch. Its on the other side of your clutch fork.
yes it could be the starter next time it won't start give the starter motor a tap with a hammer or wheel brace also check where the small blade connector is there should be a fuse in line could be the problem hope this helps regards Jim
There is a well known problem that is a manufacturer's defect with the soldered connection on the circuit board behind the temperature knob. There is a fix to re-solder the connections but the dealer will gladly take $450 to replace it with the same bad board that will last you a while. Look for the link to show you how to fix it yourself.
Remove the exhaust side spark plugs, outer timing belt cover, and crankshaft pulley.
Turn the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC).
CAUTION The camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097) can be damaged when trying to relieve belt tension if you attempt to remove the belt without first loosening both the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the spring pivot bolt.
Loosen the timing belt spring pivot bolt, but do not remove it at this point in the procedure.
Loosen the adjusting bolt slowly and release the spring tension.
Turn the tensioner with the camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097), against the spring pressure, clockwise to the farthest position.
While holding it in this position, tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner away from the belt.
Remove the timing belt.
Be certain that on piston number one, the crankshaft is at TDC with the crankshaft keyway pointing straight up and the circle on the crankshaft sprocket lined up with the notch on the engine front cover.
Line up the timing marks.
Install the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket going counterclockwise over the oil pump sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket.
Loosen the bolt allowing the tensioner pulley to press against the timing belt.
NOTE: The timing belt tensioner should not be tightened or the belt tension will not be evenly distributed over the whole belt.
Turn the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise. Next, slowly bring the crank to the number one position firing position with the keyway on the crank facing up. The dot on the crankshaft gear is lined up with the notch on the front cover.
Check the timing mark alignment again. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
Tighten the bolts. Torque the pivot bolt to 30-40 ft-lb (40-55 Nm). Torque the adjustment/locking bolt to 26-33 ft-lb (35-45 Nm).
Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt. Torque to 93-121 ft-lb (125-165 Nm).
Install the outer timing belt cover and tighten the bolt. Torque to 70-106 in-lb (8-12 Nm).
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If the battery is in good shape with a full charge, and all that happens is a click when trying to start, suspect a battery cable issue. Make sure the cables are clean and tight at the battery as well a tight at the starter. Make sure the ground cable from the battery to the engine is clean and tight supplying a good ground as well
When you replaced the starter, I assume you did disconnect the battery. Did you clean the posts before putting your battery cable back on? I replaced my battery a couple of months ago and did not clean them and my van ran fine for several days and then one day would not start. Cleaned the posts and cable ends and everything worked fine. Just a thought. Hope this helps!
I agree with the other poster that you should have your battery tested, but if it tests ok, then follow along......
When it does not start, does the engine at least crank? If no, then try starting with the shifter in "n" If it now starts, then you need a shift inhibitor (neutral safety switch) along with a new shift lever on the transmission, Mazda has a bulletin for this. If it still does not crank, then it could be corrosion on the starter signal wire (Mazda has a bulletin for this too). Cut and splice on the service replacement connector and polish the starter terminal with a piece of "Scotchbright."
If the engine cranks and doesn't start, tow it somewhere because it will not be something easy. It could be a crank / cam sensor, or the timing could be shifted. These things are almost never "crank / no start."
Well it could be an engine problem, or a bad connection with one of the battery cables. The engine would require more voltage to crank when it is hot, but not that much. You might want to have someone check the engine to see how much drag is has when hot, by turning the crank by hand.
solenoid to the starter is doing the clicking noise. run a jumper cable from the positive end of the battery to the starter cable. your cable can be shorted out from being disconnected by being loose for awhile. corrosion sets in and makes it faulty forever
Check the battery,have a load test done on the battery,and check the connections at the battery and the battery post,make sure they are shiny clean,then of course check the alternator,to make sure it is charging enough,13.65 volts to 14.25 volts,any less replace the alternator,If all this checks out good,replace the starter.
when you replaced the starter did you ensure the battery cables and terminals were clean? if not driving it that way may have hampered your alternator's ability to properly charge your new battery. i would make sure they were clean and tight then charge the battery and try again. the starter is located on the driver side of the engine on the bottom. disconnect your battery negative terminal before removing the starter.