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Sounds like you are getting too miuch fuel and not enough air. Try replacing your spark plugs and wires, then cleaning your throttle body. Replace the air filter too if its been awhile. This will probably fix the problem.
If this has a carburetor, look at the Power valve that is connected to the throttle lever. It is a small plate in front of the carb with a lever that moves with the throttle. There is a small rubber valve inside which allows gas to flow between chambers.
Another possibility is the fuel pump. After that, a bad Vacuum leak like from a ruptured EGR diaphragm can cause these problems.
From what you say Daniel, your kickdown cable need's to be adjusted, here's how :
Down at the pressure lever on the front of the trans, loosen off the cable
retaining nuts so there is a little slack in the cable. then start taking the
slack out of the cable a little bit at a time; Rest a long screwdriver on the
end of the pressure lever, holding the screwdriver with one hand start opening
the throttle with your other hand.
Just at the point the idle RPM barely
rises, the pressure lever should just barely move.
Driving test; Going
along a level road at 25 mph light throttle, floor the gas pedal. The trans
should downshift to first gear.
repeat the same drive at 28 mph, floor
the gas pedal, the trans only downshifts to second gear.
The following drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.
. Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
I had a very similar problem. I work at a ford dealership so, I had a tech look for codes. He found a trouble code, He took my 'MAF' mass air flow censor apart and cleaned it (it had some gunk on it). He then disconnected the battery to reset the computer then, reconnected it. Problem solved! more power, starts better, runs better even better mpg. remember to unhook the battery to reset computer and when you do, hold the brake pedal down for about a minute to drain the power from all the capacitors before you reconnect the battery. Hope this helps good luck, Sean