I replaced the front disk pads on my 2003 Ford F-250 super duty and had the rotors turned. After two weeks I heard grinding. I took them apart again and the new pads are wearing on the ends. The entire pad is not contacting the rotor. Do I need to replace the clips that spread the pads apart when pressure isn't being applied to the brake pedal? Or is there another problem you can think of?
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Poor quality brake pads or improper machining of the brake rotors is the common cause. Use factory OEM disk pads from the dealer, not the cheapest thing out there to avoid this type of problem with noise. Note the noise doesn't affect braking...
I describe this for a Ranger, but it is similar for your machine
It is pretty straight forward. The Ranger has front disc brakes. If possible spray everything with brake cleaner to reduce asbestos dust as you work on the brakes. Best not to breathe in any of the nasty debris on the brakes and caliper. If I have them I wear nitril gloves for less mess on the hands. Take the wheel off. The caliper holds the brake pads. On mine it is two large allen bolts at the inside of the caliper to take it off. You don't have to remove both allen bolts--take off one and then loosen the other. The caliper can then be rotated off the rotor. Now you can remove the rotor--it may have a screw holding it on still--remove that and pull it off the wheel hub.(Sometimes they can be stuck on, but they pretty much are just hanging onto the wheel hub studs) Do one at a time and then if you have any issues, look at the other one. The brake pads themselves kind of snap into place in the caliper. Remove the old ones noting any orientation issues and any shims--some of them come with thin plate shims that fit behind them. When you are ready to replace the pads, you need to use a clamp to drive the caliper piston back so that the pads on the cliper will fit onto the new rotor when they are rotated back. Make sure the bolts on the caliper are tight.
You may want to have the rotors turned--machined flat again--or buy new ones--you can always turn your old ones for next time too. There rear are less essential since most of the stopping is from the front--let me know if this helps- to push my rating u
hi from uk i assume the rotor/disc is scoured due to brake pads worne out ? here in uk it is not the practice to machine down/clean up discs because what you take off disc you forfeat the life of pads and you run possibility of the caliper piston nearing its travel if pads wear too low again and run risk of fluid leak/s also the thinner disc will heat up quicker resulting in brakes imbalance ? for your safety and others? renew both discs and pads have seen machined discs crack and literally plane away the new pads prematurely do the right thing?
Do you mean warping, as in, not round? If so, here are a few possible reasons and solutions. If the brake caliper is pulsating when you depress the pedal, it could cause warpage of the rotor. Solution - replace caliper and brake pads and have the rotor turned. If one side of the vehicle's brakes, or misc. parts, were recently replaced and not the other, if could cause uneven wear on the rotor. Solution - replace brake pads, and/or matching parts on the old/other side and have the rotor turned. There are several more possibilities but there's a starting point for ya.
In my oppinion Factory pads are far better than most aftermarket pads. You can rule out the rotors by taking them down to a mechanic that has a lave. once they start turning the rotors they will be able to tell if the rotors are warped. If your rotor thickness is under the factory minimum they could have become warped over time, which would explain why the problem got worse over time. In that case you need to purchase new rotors and have them machined. Just make sure you replace the old pads with new ones.
Its has to come of from the back. Is a 45 min job in at the dealer, so
it is a big job. All the bolts for taking it off are in the back,plus
you have to take every thing of thats in the way, tire rod end, etc.