Question about 1997 Dodge Dakota

6 Answers

Blower fan motor won't run, '97 dakota with A/C

135000 miles. Blower motor started to run only on high speed, then gradually quit. I can get to the wire that provides power to the fan by removing the glove box. I wired the fan directly to the battery with jumper lines, and the fan ran for a few seconds at a varying speed, then quit. I know that I probably need to replace the fan/motor assembly, but how do I get to it? It looks like I have to remove the entire dash!!! Can this be right????

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  • andyjct Dec 09, 2008

    Why is somebody telling me about wiper motors, when my question is about the air-conditioniong/heating/defrost fan motor? I think that I found the blower fan motor assembly, but it looks like I have to remove/disassewmble the entire dashboard (airbags and all) to get to it. Can this be right??/

  • andyjct Dec 09, 2008

    Smart *** comments are definitely NOT APPRECIATED. I need real help, not sarcasm.



    How do I pull the entire dash out? I can only get it to move back a few inches. Then I still have the plastic plenum (heat/defrost air direction chambers) top deal with. Now what?

  • andyjct Dec 11, 2008

    I have found this site to be extremely UN-HELPFUL :<( It has been several days since my original post and I paid for a "premium" answer and have gotten NOTHING! I will not use this site again, and I will recommend that others avoid it also.

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6 Answers

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  • Master
  • 599 Answers

Dash yes book time is 6.5 hours..ouch... check blower motor resistor first..and blower relay... the usual suspects here

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • milespeed Dec 08, 2008

    correction..not dash... but lower dash and under up and in...

  • milespeed Dec 09, 2008

    ok...here you go....

    Here's the skinny on replacing the core. Heater or ac, same procedure. I just did one.


    Disconnect the battery negative cable.


    Pull off the plastic dashcover.


    Do not take all those screws around the opening out.


    The instrument panel can stay.


    Remove the plastic lower and center dash covers.


    Look right under the steering column at the little black cable and the
    white thumb adjuster. That cable operates the gear indicator, unhook it
    from the column or you will break it. They're fun to fix too.

    Take the drivers seat out and sit it back a few inches, seriously, the
    steering wheel will go all the way to the floor but te seat makes it
    really tight, best to sit the seat back.


    Take the two bolts out of the center dash mounting bracket, leave the othe three. 10mm


    Disconnect the dash main harness and the little one beside it also.

    Look under the dash and see if any wires have been plastic tied.
    You might want to cut them loose or they can get pulled loose. You
    decide.


    Take the two bottom dash mounting bolts completely out of the sliding thing, dont just loosen them.

    Take the four nuts off of the steering column and lower it down.
    Sit the dash over the center bracket and lay it back. Taking loose
    another wire plug behind the dash.

    Take the flexible hose loose at the heater box. Take the heater cable
    off at the box and the vacuum lines apart at the connection. Go under
    the hood.


    If equipped with air conditioning, recover the refrigerant.


    Disconnect the accumulator inlet tubes.


    Drain the cooling system.


    Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.

    Remove the four nuts from the heater–A/C mounting studs on the
    engine compartment side. Hint, one is hid behind the trans fill tube
    and another one is behind the plastic thing holding the heater hose. Another Hint, you will need a swivel head ratchething wrench 7/16 or 11mm, not a ratchett and socket combo, oh no.


    Find the vacuum line going inside by the coolant hoses, and disconnect it.


    Go back inside on passenger side.


    Remove the mounting brace that secure the heater–A/C housing to dash board.


    Pull the housing rearward far enough for the mounting studs and evaporator condensate drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.


    Rotate the box and remove it from the vehicle. Some take them out under
    the dash, i came out the top, rotating the box clockwise coming up and
    out.

    Take the little nut and arm off the flapper. You can leave the
    push nut alone, but take it off if you can, its easier to put back
    together. Unplug the vacuum lines from the servos. Be very carefull
    prying up on the cover, it's very brittle.





    Lift the heater core out of the housing.
    .....good luck ..i can provide pictures if you ring me back



  • milespeed Dec 09, 2008

    here are the dash down and heater/ AC box coming out




  • milespeed Dec 09, 2008

    coming out...as far as you need to go


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  • Master
  • 4,806 Answers

They drop it in with a string and build the truck around it. The whole dash has to be pulled out. The job at a shop will run around 750 - 800. You can always try a Chiltons manual if you want to try it yourself. Good luck!

kind regards

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • Dodge Master
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U do have to pull the dash back to access the blower motor, this is a very long job, it really requires a factory manual to do it in min time and without removing things (or breaking parts) that don't have to be removed, do yourself a favor and buy the factory manual on ebay, that is my most sound advice to u.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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  • Master
  • 734 Answers

Sounds like you need a blower motor switch resistor. The blower motor switch resistor is what changes the resistance of the wire going from your A/C control panel to your blower motor. It works the same way as an adjustable light switch. As you lower the resistance, the blower motor speed increases. As you increase the resistance, the blower motor speed decreases. Because the resistor is not working properly, no matter where you put the fan control switch (hi-low) it keeps the resistance at the same level, so the blower motor speed is at the same low output.
Replace the blower motor switch resistor and your fan will work correctly. 

I have included some illustrations and a description of the part required below:

 

BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH RESISTOR 
The heater blower motor switch resistor assembly operates in the following manner:
The assembly is located on the passenger side of the A/C evaporator housing behind the glove compartment. 
Three resistance elements are mounted on the resistor board to provide four A/C blower motor speeds. 
Depending on the heater blower motor switch position, series resistance is added or bypassed in the A/C blower motor circuit to decrease or increase A/C blower motor speed. 
An overheating protective device (thermal limiter) prevents heat damage to the A/C evaporator housing. 
Overheating of the resistor coils can occur when the system airflow is stopped or reduced as a result of the A/C blower wheel becoming locked or unable to turn freely.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Dec 08, 2008


    BLOWER MOTOR
    WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. 

    REMOVAL
    Remove and disassemble the heater-A/C housing. See Heater-A/C Housing in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures. 
    Remove the three screws that secure the blower motor and blower wheel assembly to the heater-A/C housing Blower Motor Remove/Install 
    Pull the blower motor and wheel assembly out of the passenger compartment side of the heater-A/C housing while feeding the blower motor wire harness, grommet and connector through the hole on the dash panel side of the housing. 
    Remove the blower wheel retainer clip and remove the wheel from the blower motor shaft Blower Motor Wheel Remove/Install 
    INSTALLATION
    Press the blower wheel hub onto the blower motor shaft. Be sure the flat on the blower motor shaft is indexed to the flat on the inside of the blower wheel hub. 
    Install the retainer clip over the blower wheel hub. The ears of the retainer clip must be indexed over the flats on the blower motor shaft and blower wheel hub. 
    Place the blower motor and wheel assembly inside the heater-A/C housing and feed the blower motor wire harness connector through the grommet hole in the dash panel side of the housing. 
    Pull the blower motor wiring through the hole from the dash panel side of the heater-A/C housing until the grommet is seated, while positioning the blower motor and blower wheel assembly inside the housing. 
    Install the three screws that secure the blower motor and wheel assembly to the heater-A/C housing. Tighten the screws to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lbs.) 
    Assemble and install the heater-A/C housing. See Heater-A/C Housing in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures.

  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Dec 10, 2008

    please read the above comments.
    Thanks

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  • Master
  • 4,472 Answers

Actually it is quite often in some vehicles having to remove the entire dash. I would spend the money to purchase the service manual which will give you the exact step by step procedures. I will provide you with a link to an example of one you can purchase. Please take a moment to accept and rate my solution accordingly. If you need further assistance please let me know.
Thanks,
Lee

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • Expert
  • 399 Answers

Well you have to take the plastics off of the windshield first. The ones that are under you wiper blades. then you just unplug the blade motor. Take the 3 screws out. Then reach down throught the firewall where you took the plastics off and break the nut loose that holds the motor to the free swinging arms. ------------------ If Possible Get rid of your Clutch Fan and go Electric! But to answer the question, remove serpentine belt and use a strap wrench to stop clutch from spinning when you try to remove fan clutch nut from water pump! 

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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I think I'd try a new blower motor resistor first, as your going to need a new one anyway if it only ran in high speed. Look behind glove box, and under dash on passenger side and see where wires from blower motor are going back to. The connector where the blower motor wires attach to, is usually your blower resistor, held in with a couple of screws. If wires go through firewall, then look at back of engine area on firewall for it on passenger side. Everyone told me same thing, that the resistor will still supply power to motor, even if it's burned out, but mine quit after running on high for a while, and it was all I needed to replace to get everything working again. As I said, you'll need to replace it anyway right?

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