I had the radiator fan relay replaced in June because it was draining my battery. Now, the "cooling" fan is running slow and causing my car to overheat. Are these the same problem -- meaning, should the dealership have fixed this all at once? or do I have a legitimate second problem? I just don't want to shell out $400 for this new fan when I already spent $800 on the new relay.
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Re: radiator fan relay vs cooling fan
This sounds like the cooling fan motor was the real problem, when it does this the motor is partially shorted, this overheats the new fan relay and will burn it out, I think most likely they should have caught this when the fan relay was replaced, now the motor and the relay should be replaced, as the new relay may be damaged. Also make sure the electrical connector to the fan motor is not burnt, if it is then replace it along with the motor.
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In the under hood fuse / relay box ! There are three of them COOLFAN/relay 1-2-3 . It's marked on the under side of fuse box lid .
The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block.
checking the conventional relays and fuses, we found an additional
auxiliary cooling fan relay behind the front bumper. Once replaced, all
The fan relay is likely shorted and keeping the fan motor energized; to check this you can remove the relays from the fuse panel... remove the cooling fan rely from the underhood PDC (Power Distribution Center). Fot this and additional fuse details, check this link: wjjeeps.com/fuses.htm
It sounds like you may have a bad cooling fan. You can test this by running a jumper wire from the fire supply line going into the cooling fan to the battery. If the fan comes on this will indicate a bad fan relay which will have to be replaced. Or, it could be bad radiator hoses can **** together and cause it to run hot. Don't rule out a blown head gasket but start by checking the easier things first.
This is most likely due to a faulty temp sensor which screws into the radiator. Once this cools down it should open the circuit and allow the relay to open as well. If the sensor is constantly closed it will close the relay and keep the fan on thus draining the battery. I would replace the relay and sensor assembly due to high heat while these systems are running. The sensor should be nearest the fill neck on the radiator. Let me know if you need anything else.
check the fuse, if good then check the
thermoswitch in the radiator (it's about an inch and a half in
diameter located on the lower part of the radiator with two wires )
by disconnecting the wires and touching them together ( with
engine hot...at least 190 degrees) if the fan comes on now but didn't before, you have a
bad switch. If fan does not come on connect a 10 gauge jumper wire from the battery to
the fan itself (there are three terminals,,, one high, one low and
ground). With power direct from the battery (and a ground wire, if
necessary) fan should run... if not replace the fan assembly... if it
does run then you have a bad cooling fan relay. Compressor choice depends on your finance... a rebuilt unit is going to be a lot cheaper... Hope this helps... ;-)