I have a 1990 Nissan 300zx, When I turn the key it wont crank. I know it's not a battery problem, because everything else works. Right now I have it straight wired from the starter to the battery and it cranks fine, So Im assuming it's the clutch switch. How do I know for certain this is what it is.. and How would I go about fixing this?
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Re: Problem with the clutch switch for '90 300zx
Check your starter key switch on the steering column.
the contact for the starter is wired to the key selector.
you need the Factory Service Manual fot trace out the wire. In general, the starter wire is red, the current runs from the battery to the key switch then to starter motor.
If you have wired from stater to the battery directly, you are bypassing the key switch.
The clutch switch is mounted on the top side of the transmission near the converter housing. again, you need to located the FSM in order to figure out exactly where it is.
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First thing to check would be the starter solenoid-mounted on the starter. In the starting circuit, that is the most high use/high wear item. A tech would wait for the no start condition, then check the solenoid wire for power when key is held in the cranking position. If power is there, it indicates a faulty solenoid. If no power, trace the signal back to the ignition switch-from solenoid to starter relay to clutch switch to ignition switch. There are contact points (plates, really) inside the solenoid that become pitted and burned from use, and eventually wear down or out.
Hi there, First I need to know when you insert the key and try to start did it crank? Did all the light on the dashboard lit up like check engine, abs oil battery ect... ?? If so is the Secrity light blink? How long do you have the car? Did it ever do it befor ? I need to know more about you car.
About the only thing you didn't mention was the starter itself. You could have it tested. But before that, try to see if you have power on the small wire to starter solenoid on the starter, when key is held in cranking position. Pull the small wire off and check for power with a multimeter or a testlight while someone holds the key in crank. This is the signal wire from ignition switch that closes the elec. contacts inside solenoid so the starter gets full power from the battery to spin. (This wire also is in the circuit with the clutch switch and the starter relay.) If you have power on this wire in crank, it is very likely the starter is bad. If there is no power, check that circuit out. It is losing power somewhere from switch to starter solenoid. Good luck.
Most likely is the clutch inhibit switch, the switch is on the rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the the clutch master cylinder.Could be a bad ignition switch but that is rare.The clutch switch is designed to keep the vehicle from cranking without the clutch engaged.Make sure the floor mat is not wadded up under the pedal.
Hello! The Inhibitor relay is more than likely not pulling...If the vehicle is an automatic the selector switch passes battery when in park on a yellow wire to the relay...If a standard the clutch switch passes ground...if manual, relay is called clutch interlock...located under hood...passenger side fender...Automatic...called interlock relay...drivers side fender to the right of air intake...diagram may be to small to read but I'm limited on size...Light Green wire on clutch switch supplies ground when switch is closed pulling relay...Yellow wire off gear selector switch (park) supplies battery to the inhibitor relay...Wish I knew if your vehicle was man. or auto...See if proper batt. or gnd. is present to pull relay...If proper potential is present and the relay does not pull it is defective...Send a comment...
The distributor in the hondas has a function of also engaging the coil
to create spark. No spark = no fire. Perhaps take a plug out, leave the
lead on, hold it with INSULATED pliers against a solid metal part of the
engine and get someone to crank the engine over.
If the plug sparks -
coil and firing switch OK. If no spark, check coil first - remove main +
feed lead from coil terminals and check on a meter for power with key
on but NO motor cranking. No power = faulty distributor/firing switch.No
other ideas sorry!
If it won't
turn over you may want to check
Battery cables for tightness and/or corrosion
Neutral or clutch safety switch
Do you still have your OEM key and alarm remote control (if equipped)? If you're sure they work, open your hood and disconnect your battery for 10 minutes, connect it again and proceed to close all doors/hood as usual, arm & desarm the alarm and proceed to open the car with your key and turn it on. Did this help??