Engine quit after making a 90 " corner on gravel road. Engine cranks OK, check fuel to injectors but pressure to low to open injector. Filters ok, shut-off valve ok, no faults as indicated by scan tool.
Question, does the ECM control the injector pump and if a failure of the T-30 power supply relay?? cause the pump rack to return to a neutral position and therefore prevent the pump from generating adequate fuel pressure to open the injectors? Or is this a mechanical problem in the injector pump?
Some assistance would be most helpful as it is winter here and need the car.
Hi, I realy believe you are low on full & by making the turn you got air in the system. Add fuel, then get an assistant to cranck the engine for you while you blead the injectors throughly. One by one, till you see no bubbles coming out. If you have air in the diesel, preasure will be very low as you described. Hope that does it.
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There is no throttle body on a TDI, but continuing to crank you engine with no fuel pressure will absolutely fry your pump and/or injectors (An '03 could be either an ALH or a PD engine, - different fuel injection systems, but same disastrous result in either).
Here's my .02:
DO NOT let a VW dealer touch your TDI. They commonly throw parts at it until the problem either goes away or they throw up their hands and say "I dunno". Either way, people routinely waste a boatload of time and money with no relief when taking their TDI to a VW dealer.
Go to TDIClub.com and look for a trusted TDI Guru near you (there's a list by state) and have one of these guys look at it. They're very helpful and more knowledgeable than 95% of VW dealers.
check for air in the system . Bleed out at all bleed screws . crack the injector lines at the injectors and continue cranking until diesel drips from the nut. tighten and continue cranking. Check for fast crank speed and glo-plug operation
My 97 Suburban had a similar problem. Would not crank on a regular basis. Replaced spark plug wires, plugs and rotor cap. Vehicle cranked and ran just fine, plugs were in poor shape. Checked fuel pressure, above 55psi with engine running or just the switch turned on. Immediately after switching engine off the pressure would bleed off to "0" PSI. Otherwise everything OK. Problem solved, so I thought. A couple days latter I had to make a road trip from Mobile, Al to Fort Meyers, Fl when cranking problem re-occurred after approx. 100 miles into trip. I stopped at parts houses on the way to ask questions and to obtain their best ideas, at times it would take 30 minutes before engine would again crank after making a stop. I replaced almost all of the sensors. Finally made it to Fort Meyers that night. Next morning vehicle was dead would not crank no matter what I tried. Fuel pressure OK. Only thing left to replace, Fuel Injector spider system. Problem solved.
If you have good fuel pressure. Check for spark at any plug while cranking, If no spark, also place a screw driver on an injector and listen to it while someone cranks it over. If you have NO spark and NO injector click - crank sensor needs to be replaced. 95% other 5% hmmm wiring problem on / near crank or cam sensors, theft system active, dead pcm.......
It is not air or fuel supply. Do not try clearing the fuel lines.
You have a faulty residual fuel sensor. This is part of the warm start system. A small amount of fuel is held under pressure so as there is pressure in the system to start the car. Pressure varies due to heat. Yours is failing under heat. When cold it starts just fine.
Go to the library ask for the Robert Bentley (authors) service manual for your model and yr. If they don't have it they will get it from another branch (free). Look under fuel system and you will see all the details on the system.
Check the fuses/relays for the fuel pump and make sure you are getting gas to the fuel injectors. Also check your fuel filter....if it is clogged it could be stopping the gas from getting to the injectors....good luck
In the plug by the dipstick are the pink wires going to the injectors but one will be white/yellowish on the car side - remove this wire from the plug to see if the car starts then the rail oil pressure sensor is at fault because it may read ok but the car dont run !
Anti theft light goes off when cranking thats ok but the reading for the rail oil pressure control valve is important in a no start problem does it rise when cranking ? should be about 18-25% if it goes up to 90% then the lower oil pump is starved or pulling air or the rail oil pressure control valve is suspect,wants pulling out to see if its ok .
You can clean it yourself by removing the intake and powerwashing it out. If a dealer does it they will way overcharge you. You might need a new EGR valve too since that might be clogged up too. There are a lot of tutorials on the web and it isn't that bad of a job. Just make sure you wear gloves.