Question about 2001 Toyota 4Runner

5 Answers

Back driver wheel locked up when driving forward. When the truck is in reverse it turns. Brake light is on and parking brake off. ABS, VSC OFF, and VSC TRAC lights are on.

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  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    I have a 2001 toyota 4runner SR5. The back driver wheel lockeds up when driving forward. When the truck is in reverse it turns. The parking brake off. The Brake light, ABS light, VSC OFF light, and VSC TRAC lights are on.

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    why are the lights on?

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    why are the lights on

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    Ok I got the wheel to work now what about all the light that are on

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    parking brake is off, the fluid is good, and there are no leaks. The brake has pressure

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    Thanks for the tips. It really saved allot of time

  • genew82 Dec 08, 2008

    Thanks for the tips. It really saved allot of time

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5 Answers

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Check out  the Rear drum brakes or disc
if the Drum brakes are problem ------Drum out of round, axel seal leaking oil onto shoes, hold down kit came apart causing shoes to jam, parking cable stuck, cracked drum(hardly ever), seized wheel cylinder.
if the Disc is a problem -------Rotor out of round, seized caliper, cracked rotor (hardly ever), Seized parking brake cable, broken parking brake shoes or hardware jamming up inside rotor .
also sounds like your brakes are locked up
make sure park break is fully released.
if not park brake, thenput new brakes in 

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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Try opening the bleed screw if fluid shoots out and brake frees up it is an issue with the brake line if not then you have a frozen caliper or park brake hung up. I assume it does not turn freely when backing up?

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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You have, without question, a seized park brake pivot on the backing plate on the driver side. Try this: Look under the vehicle, at the ends of both brake cables to both of the rear backing plates. You will see mechanisms bolted to the backing plates. The seized wheel will not match the other side's mechanism clearance aspect. Sometimes, spraying the pivot mechanism with WD-40 will loosen it. Spray it and pull on the cable leading to it.
Take a look and please get back to me.
Thanks for selecting FixYa to solve your issue.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • Toyota Ed Dec 08, 2008

    Since you have already rated me, I doubt that you will be able to see this, but, I'll try to answer...The lights are on because you either have a failed wheel speed sensor, or a broken wire going to the speed sensor (could be any of the 4). To determine this properly, you are going to need to get the vehicle hooked up to a scann tool. Check for obvious broken wires before you get it scanned.

  • Toyota Ed Dec 08, 2008

    Genew82, please ignore the post by one of the "experts" above, all that was done was to copy & paste this link: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-800/20... which is, of course, no use to you whatsoever.

  • Toyota Ed Dec 08, 2008

    Thank you for accepting my solution.

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HI AND WELCOME TO FIXYA
about a 1 hour job 

1 you need to remove the wheel 4 or 5 nuts.
2 you need to remove the caliper 2 bolts at the back of the disk.
3 there will be a cup in the middle of the disk you can remove the cup with a hammer and a medium flat blade screw driver behind the cup us a large nut it may have a **** pin going through it you will need a pair of side cutter plyers to remove the split pin the nut will be 24mm.
4 there will be 2 bolts with a nut each on the back of them undo the bolts and the disk will come toward you and hang on an angle.
5 your driveshaft will be sort of locked in to the transmission give the driveshaft a bit of a shake side to side and pull toward you at a steady rate you dont want to damage your seals. 
6 it is all straight forward when putting i back together just make sure to do the caliper and the 24mm nut up as tight as you can and dont forget the split pin.

if i was you i was you i would do the driver side axel as well they always seem to follow not long after you replace the other

hope i explained it well let me no if you get stuck

no you dont need any special tools

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 08, 2008


    I'm sure this sounds silly but, have you tried turning the wheel hard right and hard left? You wouldn't believe how many times people have their tires turned to the right or left, which binds the ignition switch to the point that you can't turn the key to start the vehicle.

    If the steering is in a rotational bind it can also bind the "U" joint in the steering column. 

    Check to make sure that you can actually operate the key cylinder and start the vehicle.

    If you can operate the key cylinder of the ignition and start the vehicle, try rotating the steering wheelwith the engine running, and see if that will unlock your "U"joint adjuster.

    If you do all of the above and it's still unable to be adjusted, you will have to have a locksmith replace the universal joint rod in the steering column. 

    The main reason for these joints to fail is due to people driving with the column in an attitude ofeither up from the straight position, or down from the straight position.

    The column is "designed" to operate from any position, BUT it causes the joint to fail due to prolonged use in an either up or down position while driving. The adjustable wheel is great for getting into and out of the vehicle, but it should always be driven in a totally straight position with NO upward or downward slant to the steering column.

    I hope this will solve your problem economically.



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Well, I took a while to think about it. If I were in that situation, I'd try to isolate the cause. Now, have you had any jobs done lately to you car? Something with brakes or tires involved? Sometimes, LAZY technicians tend to not tighten down the nuts on the tire properly. Both by insufficient pressure or if they failed to use the "star pattern" in bolt the tire back up. So, if you believe the sound is in the front, you could take off both tires and have them put on properly (pressure and star pattern).

As well, routine tire rotation not being followed will cause noises. The tires are "rotated" around the car so that by the end of the tire's life, it will have been at all four points, giving good, even wear and thus getting your money's worth out of expensive tires. Your manual should have a "tire rotation" section in which it explains how Toyota would prefer you to switch tires around but my personal preference is a modified "Z" pattern in which the front driver tire moves to the passenger side, the passenger tire to the back left and the back left tire to the back right and the back right tire makes the long trip up to the front driver.

Another thing that could cause that is "bald spot". Now, you have a Camry XL which should have come with ABS but I guess its worth mentioning. What happens is under hard braking (emergency braking) people with no ABS or malfunctioning ABS tend to "lock up" the tires when braking hard. In essence they just slide to a stop because the front tires do not spin at all, as opposed to having ABS which prevents the tires from locking up under hard braking and give you added control to be able to steer to avoid a collision. What happens it causes the tire to have a flat area on an otherwise round tire.

Are you tires worn? You can do the penny test in which you stick a penny between the tire's treads with Lincoln's head toward the tire and his neck visible. If you can see his head(let's say that means from his eyes on up to the top of his head), even barely, you have worn tires. The more you see, the worse the wear on the tire. There's also a chalk test in which you can see if your tires are properly setup because it shows if your tires are wearing incorrectly due to unbalanced tires, underinflation, or overinflation.

As well, I had a similar deal in which I heard a clicking for two days and it just drove me crazy. When I finally had the time, I had my brother isolate which tire made the sound and came to find out that a rock was wedged right in between the treads and was causing the clicking. Sometimes it'll happen with a nail that's stuck or shards of glass that get stuck.

Finally and I do apologize if I'm long-winded in my reply! I just want you to get the most out of your investment. Well, outside of the alignment you feel the Camry needs, are there any other issues? Vibration in the steering wheel? Bouncy ride over bumps? Drifts to one side from softly to violently (meaning that the steering wheel jerks to one side the moment you let it go, under speed)?

Well, I hope this helps and if not, please feel free to write me back.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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