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your vehicle may still be under warranty. Call your local dealer and provide your VIN#, warranty is 60months/60,000 mile powertrain warranty, 96months/80,000 mile emissions warranty. I strongly recommend contacting the dealer before your vehicle hits 60,000 miles.
Sounds like a combo condition concerning your rear brakes and wheel bearings, if the noise was or is louder on right turns then left replace the right side wheel bearing and vice versa.Get this car to a shop however immediately as the ABS brake system may be trying to lock up the wheel that may be wobbling causing all sorts of havoc.
Your owners manual will tell you what things they check and replace. At 30,000 miles the vehicle should still be under warranty, I believe vehicles now days come with 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty. Spark plugs are supposed to last 100,000 mile, so you should be looking at maybe an air filter, fuel filter, transmission fluid and filter, engine oil and filter. Squeaking noise may be brakes. Do you stop hard? Ask for an estimate before you let them attack your car.
the light fault sound like the switch itself, the clicking heard will be the relay once a good connection is made at the switch. If the engine management light has come on it will have an emmisions related fault and will need further attention, this is not related to the service schedule
IF ITS MAKING A CLICKING NOISE WONT TURN OVER.CHECK BATTERY CABLE FOR TIGHTNESS AND NO CORROSSION. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE. SHOULD BE 12.5 VOLTS.IF NOT HAVE IT CHARGED AND TESTED.IF ITS GOOD HAVE ALTERNATOR CHECKED OUT.IF BOTH IS GOOD HAVE THE STARTER REMOVED TO HAVE IT AND THE STARTER SOLENOID TESTED.NOTE DUE TO LOCK OUT FEATURE.TURN OFF RADIO SO YOU WONT LOSE CODE WHEN YOU DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.
You have a loose heat shield or a broken rubber mount.
jack your car up make sure you put some thing under need like a jack stand ( just for safety) and manually shake your muffler usually rattling noises are cause when metal rubes metal.
That's a load of **** they are feeding you.The timing chain tentioner has a fault and not tentioning the chian.I think you have done a good thing keeping it on synthetic oil.That causes less wear on moving parts than other oils.
Not the turbo on it's last legs. Check the hoses that come off of your turbo that go into the intake. Fords are famous for the hose clamps that hold the hoses in place breaking or coming loose and the woosh sound you hear is the compressed air being forced out of the hose somewhere when the turbo spools up. When this occurs you probably don't have quite the pulling torque you should. You will notice quite a drop in performance. Check the hoses or rubber boot connections from your turbo.
Ok, first off you need to take your vehicle to a Nissan dealer for a second opinion. Its not at all common to need a T-chain @ 58,000 miles unless you dont take care of your car and or you beating the snot out of it like it was stolen. What is the symptom? What caused it? When did it start? Second, this is not something an amature could/should do as it is very involved and there are alot of things you could potentially mess up. Third a new engine(long block), parts alone would run approx. 6-8 thousand dollars. A used engine could be an option and could run approx.1500-2500 dollars depending on mileage. Hope this helps and good luck.
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