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if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.
I am sorry but luckily I have not had any suspension issues other than tie-rods, which need to be replaced periodically anyway. I did do suspension work last summer replacing the front ti-rods , wheel alignment/balance and new tires but since then the ride has been good.
Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do.
-lower ball joints
-upper ball joints
-inner tie rod ends
-outer tie rod ends
It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?
The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install.
The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end.
The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm.
Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.
The steering gear box is worn out. And, there's probably worn front suspension components adding to the problem. You will need to check the following parts for looseness or movement: Idler Arm, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Control Arm Bushings, Pitman Arm, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Front Hub Bearings. All of these can be replaced in your driveway with the exception of the Control Arm Bushings which are pressed in and require special tools to remove and install the bushings. If you can't replace all of them, concentrate your efforts on the following: Steering Box, Idler arm, and Control Arm Bushings. If you can afford to have all of them done, the front suspension would be factory fresh and should, with proper wheel alignment, drive like a new car.
Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.
drag link is the bar! between the tie rod ends and has connection to the pitman arm if it is bad the joint where it hooks to the steering box/ pitman arm will shake when you put your hand on it to move it
It could be tie rod ends or the steering box. Raise the front wheels and support the car. Grab one wheel at a time and try to twist it on its vertical axis. You should feel some play in one or both wheel. Look under the car and watch the tie rods (inner and outer) to determine which is worn. Lastly, grab the inner tie rod end and push/pull to determine if the steering box is to blame. Replace the damaged part soon. You do not want to have these parts break while you are driving.