Fuse for brake lights ,horn,shift lock release and cruise control blows every now and again. There's also burning wire smell and I am wondering if I can get a wiring schematic. The car is a 96 honda civic sedan ex.

check wires in rear,check for ground,check for shorts

you have what they call is a shorten earth wire has come off or maybe trailer wire has come off of the connector

Most likely you're looking at the switch by the brake pedal. (stop light switch)

That switch not only controls the rear brake lights, but also the solenoid that releases the shift lock for the shifter.

hot wire touching metal fuse blows so you don't burn up the wiring get it tested and fixed soon could be dangerous to keep putting in a new fuse

Honda makes the Integra but it uses the Acura name in the US.
According to the wiring diagram the brake lights and horn are on the same circuit. So I would check the bulbs and sockets for a short.
The brake light switch also involves the cruise control system.

The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

It will be the brake switch that the pedal operates. It may be that the same switch is used to de-activate the cruise control when on. And it's on the same circuit as the horn, so when you have no horn, you know you've got no brake lights. Go to you Dealer and get a new switch - they have been modified a long time ago.

If the fuse continues to blow, too much current is trying to get to the intended load. Bring your car to a shop that specializes in auto electric problems. I believe this will be a wiring problem.

I may can help with the transmision part. Will your cruise work? If not,this is your fix.
Sitting in the driver seat, to the left of the gear shift is a small tab that says shift lock overide. Pop this tab off and push a small screw driver down until it releases the lock while trying to shift into gear . To fix the problem replace the brake light/cruise control switch. (can be found at most auto zone stores $40-60). It is a pin switch located just above the brake pedal. Mash the brake an you will be able to see it operate. Easy to replace.

press on brake? if so, stil non op, check connection, loose off, if ok FUSE, or bad switch, brake light work ok?