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it is really common for the rear caliper slides to become stiff or frozen. The caliper should slide back and forth with little effort. If it doesn't than make sure the slides are free and lubricated.
If you had a difficult time installing the new pads into the bracket than that could also be the problem. The pads should fit into the bracket with little effort and feel loose once installed. If they don't than remove the shims and clean the rust from under them. Then reinstall the shims and see if the pads slide a little easier in the brackets.
Lastly make sure you didn't pinch or twist the rubber brake hoses.
Another thought is to remove the caliper from the bracket and try to spin the rotor/hub by hand. Maybe the e-brake shoes are causing the problem?
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads and the 4 anti-squeal shims
CAUTION Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or replacement of the brake caliper.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
Install or connect the following:
Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
2 brake pads
Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
1.Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir 2.Loosen the wheel nuts then raise the vehicle and remove wheel 3.Push the piston back into the bore to provide room for the new brake pads.A C-clamp can be used to accomplish this As the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore the fluid in the master cylinder will rise.Make sure is doesnt overflow.If necessary drain off some of the fluid. 4.Before removing anything,spray the disc,and brake pads with brake system cleaner dont use compressed air 5.remove the caliper mounting bolt,the banjo fitting for the brake hose shouldnt be disconnected unless you are removing the caliper or hose replacement 6.Swing the caliper up and secure the caliper up towards the spring with a piece of wire then remove the lower and upper anti-rattle springs.Remove the outer brake pad and shim then remove the inner brake pad ans shim(s) 7.Remove and inspect the upper and lower pad retainer clips,the pad retainer clips should fit snugly in the caliper mounting bracket;if they dont,replace them.Apply thin film of high-temperature grease to the retainer 8.Apply anti-squel compound to the back of pads install the new inner pad and shim(s) make sure the "ears" on the upper and lower ends of the pad are fully engaged with their respective grooves and the pad retainer clips 9.Install the new outer pad and shim if new pad has no shim take the old shimoff the old pad and install it on the new outer pad.Install the upper and lower anti-rattle springs 10.Clean off the caliper pin and coat it with high-temperature grease.Lubricate the lower caliper pin with grease too thenswing the caliper down over the disc and new pads (if the piston hits the inner pad depress the piston further into the caliper bore with your c-clamp 11.Install the mounting bolt and tighten it to the torque specifications (44-63) 99 and earlier models (51-55)00 and later models 12.Put the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts
bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.