Question about 1990 Honda CRX

5 Answers

Honda crx 1988 honda crx si Engine was driving errantically when under torque, yet would rev fine in idle. Let it idle, after 20 minutes it stalled, yet restarted, next day it would not start, yet it cranks fine and battery is fully charged. Main relay was clicking when igition switch was on, when I disconnected it, clicking stop, put in new relay, new one clicks also. ECU flashes quickly, yet does not give a code, and a Honda tech thought it might be the back side of the iginiton, electical switch[name?]. Anyways with replacing the main relay, not wanting to just try new parts without some certainty. Thanks for the help Kurtis kurtis77@gmail.com

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  • kurtis77 Dec 18, 2008

    Disconnected battery to clear codes, ECU does Not flash repeatly anymore.

    Did spark test, while engine turning over, with spark plug connected next to metal of EFI, no spark from two plugs. Plugs are new [high end titanum?] NGK plugs Tested coil, resistance at .5 ohm, replaced igition control module, still does not start, main relay also still clicks rapidly. What needs testing / replaced?



    ?2 - rubber boot on raditor thermostat by oil filter is sealed / stuck on [probably 1/2 melted on from heat and 200,000 miles], can not disconnect to replace, is there a way to loosen rubber boot without cutting it off?



    ?3 hatch latch will not open, have to use key, how do you trouble shoot this.



    Thanks for your help, Kurtis

  • kurtis77 Dec 18, 2008

    first "solution" did not even address why main relay is clicking, perhaps someone else can help?

  • kurtis77 Dec 23, 2008

    well, i check every connection that i could find, main relay, wires to distributor, the main fuse box on the engine well, no luck...
    another other suggestions on why the main relay is clicking and engine will not start would be appreciated...

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A common problem with a car battery is low voltage. As a battery ages it losses the ability to store electricity resulting in a insufficient flow of electrical energy to the starter. The starter is designed to operate on a high amperage 12 volt system, when a starter is subjected to low voltage or amperage (flow) it will cause the starter to engage and disengage rapidly producing the machine gun like sound. To fix this problem a battery inspection or replacement is needed. There are two reasons that a battery will not perform as it should, either the alternator has failed allowing the battery's state of charge to become weak or the battery has failed and replacement is required. Unfortunately to check the alternator the engine must be running, so you must either jump start your car or replace the battery to check the charging system. If the alternator output test is ok then the battery is bad and must be replaced. If while driving the charge light indicator on the dash was not illuminated and the battery is more than three years old the battery has probably failed.
it's reasonable to assume that the rings and
valves (inside the engine) have become worn. Worn rings
and valves will cause the engine to have low compression
and low compression = weak power.
You may be curious as to why the engine's lack of power is
most evident when driving up a hill. Well, when a vehicle is
going up a hill, the engine is under more stress than when
driving on a flat road. Therefore, any wear in the rings/valves
will tend to be revealed - in the form of compression - when
the engine is under stress.

you will need to have a mechanic verify that the rings and/or
valves are indeed worn. Incidentally, this generally involves
what's known as a "wet compression test".
If the mechanic tells you he positively confirmed a worn ring
and/or worn valve condition, don't immediately authorize him
to do the work. Why? Because, this type of work is very
expensive and therefore you'll want to get several opinions
before jumping into anything. By the way, even though this
vehicle's high mileage strongly points to the above diagnosis,
it's possible the cause of this problem is something else.
For example, one of the electronic sensors that controls the
engine may have gone bad.do a compression test. happy holiday

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

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The torque converter went bad and leaked oil into the transmission. civics have bad torque converters they should have been recalled I'm not sure why they haven't. I've had this same problem myself and once I had that replaced it was fine. When I called Honda and told them the problem they seemed to know already it was the transmission and I brought it to a local transmission shop and they replaced it for me.

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

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Try to use the site www.autoshop101.com.i think they can provide you a good solution than i could provide.thank you

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially on the electrical concern, to my understanding, on switching IGN switch to ON, the main relay should only click once. This engages it and is locked in that position as long as the IGN switch is ON. The clicking behavior indicates that it is switching ON/OFF. Possibilities are:

  • alarm/security/immobilizer falsely triggering and then re-correcting itself;
  • loose, corroded relay terminals;
  • loose, corroded connectors;
  • corroded fuse terminals;
  • loose, corroded fusible link wire from the + terminal of the battery leading to the main harness that goes to the fuse/relay box.
Recommended action:
  • visual inspection, cleaning, scraping of electrical connections as above itemized;
  • spraying with electrical contact cleaner and application of electrical grease;
  • generally and look & see. Run the engine and moved the harness, connectors to see at which point engine will cutoff and/or main relay stops the clicking.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 24, 2008

    Could you possibly check if the main relay is identical to the other relays? If yes, rather than buying, you could swap the relays and see if there is any reaction/change.

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Cut away boot..its dust..use tape or get replacement... have you tested/replaced ignitor assembly...also sounds like could have massive vacuum leak...try spraying carb cleaner while cranking around intake snorkle and intake mainfold area to see if it wakes up...good luck

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • milespeed Dec 18, 2008

    yea , working backwards i guess i stopped to soon with your questions...i concur with Benimurs' thorough explanation and recommendations completely ...good luck

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