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the stuff describe most likely from the anti boil -anti freeze mixture that has become ineffective for not being changed regularly and not up to percentage to do the job. It allows the aluminium parts of the car to corrode and what you see is the end result . It will deposit in the cores of the radiator and block them up resulting in a replacement radiator . You can expect corroded aluminium parts from all areas of the motor.
Does the blower motor still work? Lift the hood after the engine is at normal operating temperature, and feel the two heater hoses going from the engine into the firewall. Both should be hot if the coolant is circulating through the heater core. If they are, one of the inner doors in the heater box may not be operating. The doors are either cable operated or vacuum operated from your heater controls. One door in the box should be open when heat is desired to let the blower fan blow air across the heater core, and then to the vents where heat comes out. The heater box is usually rather large, under the middle of the dash. Have someone check your temperature blend door- I believe that is the one that may be at fault. Now if only one of the heater hoses is hot, and the other is cool, the coolant is not circulating through the core. Look for an in-line water valve on one of the hoses. These also may be cable or vacuum operated from the heater control head. Not all vehicles have a valve, just some do.
To verify you have hot water going into the heater core, remove the two hoses for the heater from your engine and see if you have water running through the core. There is a possibility that your heater core is plugged. If that is ok, then your next best thing is to check your cables running to the heater to verify it is not broken. Lastly, check the heater switch to blower motor resistor on the front of the heater box. It may be broken.