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Drive shaft have only one seal and seal rear side on metal bush
1 jak up littil gear box because after shaft remov ing time oil no feldown
2 remove drive shaft rear bolt
3 mesher drive shaft seal touching area
4 mesher drive shaft Bush touching area this area damage want send machine Shoppe bush cover and drive shaft that time send seal also
Damege change that Bush also
Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.
Follow the procedure for removing the timing belt. With the belt off, remove the crankshaft sprocket (the gear on the bottom that the timing belt slips onto). The front seal is behind this gear. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any good ways for removing this gear...I'm currently looking for a solution to that little issue as I type.
The timing cover itself does not seal any oil from leaking. It is just a cover to prevent debris from getting into the timing belt and ruining it.
To find the oil leak you will need to remove the timing cover and inspect the seals behind the cam gear, crank gear, and oil pump drive gear, and the oil pump to block seal. The most common leaks on these are the cam gear.
This sounds like the crank seal, the engine doesnt have to be removed, in order to get to seal is like replacing the ttiming belt, and once in the timing belt i would replace the crank and cam seals, also do the timing belt, and maybe the waterpump, you will need to remove the crank pulley and then the timing covers then align timing marks for timing belt before ou remove it, with timing belt off the crank pulley then slides off the crankshaft and the seal is behind it, the cam shaft gear unbolts and the seal is behind the gear, once the gears are off then you will be able to remove the seals from the engine,heres a few diagrams to help. good luck and i hope this is helpful,
yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.
This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.
3.3L and 3.8L Engines
See Figure 18
Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.
Assemble the timing chain and gears.
Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
Install the timing chain snubber.
Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
Install new O-rings to the block.
Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.
The mechanic should check on the gears form N, R, P, 1st gear, second, third gear of the transmission . you also have to check the oil seals of the gears of the transmission.Don't forget to check also the shift level and the shift fork of the transmission.check the said gears ,the shift fork ,the shift level and the oil seals if they are worn out or destroyed you should replace them.Most of the time if the engine spudders when changing in gears it means that there is a problem in the oil seals of the transmission gears . Don't forget to check also the transmission bearing to be sure. Because it is spuddering .
you need a gear puller to pull the gear off. but to change the seal for the crankshaft, you only remove the timing gear and change the seal on the cover that you removed. there is nor need to pull the gear itself. if you pull the gear, you still can't change any other bearings or seals without removing the heads and manifold.