My fuse 120a which controls everything is blown because when trying to charge the battery the current was switched. I have purchase a new fuse to replace it but I can't remove the old one. It has a bolt that holds it in place and I can't remove the box. We've tryed a screw driver to open up the latches that hold the box in place, because we are suppose to flip it to remove the bolt so that the fuse can be removed. Help please
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Re: remove fuse 120a
You cannot change the fuse the way that you are trying. You need to loosen all of the bolts that holds the fuse box to the inner fender, and then observe the sides of the box, there are tabs that allow the exterior/bottom of the box to be pulled DOWN. After the box bottom is released, the 120 Amp fuse is accessible.
Hope this helps.
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In the fuse box under the hood near the headlight open the cover, open the red cover with the plus sign on it, it should be 12 volts or so there, if not then either the battery in the trunk is dead or the fuse on the positive terminal is blown. If there is voltage at that point there is another fuse or two blown in the fuse box, check the higher amp fuses, the 120A main fuse, the DC fuse, use a voltmeter or test light to check.
Some vehicles are fitted with a smart charging system that is designed to prevent the alternator charging during acceleration to free a few horsepower to help.
My experience of these is very limited but there is an ECU that controls them and the battery, charging or ignition light using information from the engine management system.
The alternator generally has an extra plug with about four or five wires which when disconnected render the alternator a standard machine sensed type.
Japanese vehicles used separate voltage regulators longer than most types. You either need experience or a wiring diagram for good fault diagnosis but mostly it is unnecessary to check the charging current of an alternator which bears little significance unless being tested with a graduated load or adjustable carbon pile.
The current output of a healthy alternator is dependent on the terminal voltage of the battery which in turn is dependent on the electrical load placed upon it. Switching on the lights should lower the voltage and increase the alternator output. If the battery is particularly good the voltage won't fall very much and the current won't increase as much as expected...
Measuring the battery voltage with the engine running at about 2000/2500 rpm is sufficient for most purposes. With nothing switched on and a fully charged battery it should be around 14.5 volts and with everything switched on (lights, HRW, heater fan, etc.) a healthy alternator should continue to maintain a voltage above that of a healthy fully charged battery (13.2 volts).
If the voltage isn't maintained on load the charging system, probably the alternator, is faulty and should be independently tested.
What do you mean won't stay charged ? Battery dies while driving , dies over night ? Is the battery symbol lit on the dash , check charging system message on driver info center ? If it drains over night there is a parasitic draw on the electrical system ! If while driving the battery goes dead it's not charging , with a new alternator the problem is in the electrical circuitry . Blown fusible link or fuse . This charging system is controlled by the PCM - engine computer , the heavier gage wire on the back of the alternator should have battery voltage , if not blown fusible link near the battery . The connector with three wires ,one should have B+ voltage , the other two come from the PCM .
20A starter fuse? There is a heavy black/red wire that connects directly to the starter. The 120A FUSIBLE LINK 1 protects the charging circuit. There are two white wires that are connected to 30A FUSIBLE LINK 8. From there, power goes to the ignition switch and from the switch to the park/neutral position switch. That switch output is applied to the starter.
Check your fuses and the main charging relay in the power distribution box to make sure they aren't blown. Next start checking your wires. Your looking for Corrosion or stiff spots that seem to crackle when you bend the wire indicting a burned spot. Make sure you check the battery terminal cables the same way and make sure there are no bare spots worn through the insulation on the main positive wire going from the battery to the starter. I see this in older cars from a wire rubbing against the motor or frame causing a grounded condition and when that happens it won't charge or start.
depends on type fuse
some also have screws that hold them down
locate fuse box under hood
look for blown fuse, if NOT screwed in just pull straight up to remove, reverse to install new one
if screwed in just remove screws (righty tighty / lefty losy) reverse to install new fuse
OK the battery in good charge should be at 12.5 volts ( as measured with a voltmeter across the terminals) When the engine is running you should expect the reading to be about 14 volts. Put the lights on ( a load on the battery) and the voltage can go as high as 14.5v.
Switch everything off (I mean everything..radio etc) and disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Now put the meter in ammeter mode and measure the current between the negative terminal and the cable that is now disconnected. It should be really very low current (milliamps at most), switch on the lights to show ourself what that current drain looks like. If the residual current looks significant take out each fuse in turn and return it noting on pen and paper any drop in current when the fuse is out. This process will identify the circuit that is draining the battery. Check the wires and junctions in this circuit for shorts etc. If its lights try removing bulbs until the current drain stops If possible leave the fuse out over night on this circuit and see if this effects the battery's ability to charge and stay charged.