I have a 98 ford contour and my fan blower just stopped working. It does start to work all of a sudden, when it does the fan speed control works perfect. Then, when I turn car off, it's done.
I can feel heat coming from the vents, but not sure if this is the fan speed control switch on the dash that is the issue or the fan relay?
I was told that It may not be the relay because when the fan does work, all speeds work perfectly. Can you help? If you think I should check the fan relay, I do not knkow the location either.
Please let me know
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At the central junction box, check 15A fuse 16 which feeds the remote climate control (RCC) module. Check 10A fuse 28 which feeds the RCC module and the blower motor relay. Check 40A fuse 6 which feeds the blower motor relay.If the fuses are OK, start the engine (the blower only works while the engine is running). There should be 12V at the PNK/WHT wire connection to the front blower motor speed controller and the blower should be operating. If not, the controller may be defective or the blower motor may have failed
Do you know how to do automotive electrical circuit testing ? Because this how one would find the problem ! Looking at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved , Fan switch , resistor pack , high speed relay etc..... Do you own a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know how to use one ?
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on HVAC ,then under subsystem HVAC controls will come up on thier own . Click the search button then the blue link .The first link ,first diagram is the one you want to look at . Blower Motor Problems Auto Repair Help
If you aren't getting any airflow out of the heater, your blower motor had a sticky bearing and overheated until it blew its thermal fuse, the motor resistor burned out, or something fried in the heater-A/C controller.
I've never looked under the hood of a Contour, but many cars have the blower motor mounted on the engine side of the firewall, and some of these have the connector out there also. Otherwise, you'll have to crawl under the dash. Once you find the blower connector, you can test the system before you buy parts. First, unplug the blower connector, then (with the car turned on and set so the heater could run if it was working) check the voltage* between the connector pins and ground (not the motor half of the connector!). If you get voltage (which pin has voltage will depend on fan speed settings), then check the motor and any resistors mounted with it. If you don't, look for a separate blower motor resistor, then check the control if necessary.
*Use a voltmeter (preferred) or a small 12 V lightbulb. The
"screwdriver spark draw test" used by some amateurs is potentially hazardous and destructive,
especially if there are solid-state controllers in the circuit.
It's uner the dash, alot of time packages/people will loosen its one wire. If it also will not just blow on fan and is indead plugged in and has 12volt measuerd to ground it's a new fan motor you'll need.