I need to remove front hub bearing on my 2002 Dodge Ram pickup, but the stub shaft u-joint and boot on the back side of the knuckle is in the way. I can't get at the 3 hex machine screws holding it onto the knuckle. Do I have to pull the whole knuckle assy off the ball joints or is there a special wrench that will fit these screws? I'm thinking I might be able to mill down a 14mm socket so it will just fit over the hex cap, giving me room, but not sure.
Re: front hub bearing removal 2002 dodge ram 1500 4WD...
I just did a 2002 2500 4x4 with a dana straight axle and had no problem getting on the bolts with a 9/16 12 point socket on a 6 inch extension. If you do not use an extension the head of the ratchet will hit the yoke of the axle shaft.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you will have to change both sides to start with. I'm doing this on a 1996 ram 1500. first, put the truck on 2 wheel drive or neutral for traction, raise vehicle, i got a lift it's easy, remove both wheels, calipers and rotors. unlock the driveshaft nut (cotter pin) and unbolt that nut. on the inside of the hub, first mark the relation on one side between the yoke and the shaft, then, there is 3 bolts holding the hub in, remove them. next, more cotter pins, upper and lower ball joint and tie-rod end need to come out, so, unscew the tie-rod end first and seperate it with ball joint seperator. do the same for the upper and lower ball joints. seperate the spindle and the axel should come out. the rest is standard procedure to change a ball joint.
let me know if it's enough info or if you want more please.
sould be standard left to loosen,, make sure you soak it with PB blaster or Kroil,, I've spun the nuts, before(plow trucks) and had to buy the stub shaft(dealer only $$$) and new U joints,, Keep soaking it!!! Hub bearings are pricey also,, good luck,, You will have to use the jaws to pull it off, and the bolts on the back side, soak those,, I ve separated the hubs before, and then i ve had some come off easy,, Good luck,, total fix $350-$1200 per side. keep soaking, is all i'm saying...
raise you vehicle on jackstands. remove front wheel and tire.remove front caliper from steering knuckle assembly, remove rotor from hub by pulling it staright off. remove speed sensor bracket from strut assembly. remove hub and bearing to stub axle retaining nut. dislodge inner CV stub shaft retaining ringon transaxle assembly. insert small pry bar between transaxle case and inner CV joint by prying on it.remove strut assembly to steering knuckle bolts remove top of steering knuckle from strut assembly, then rotate CV assembly out of vehicle. Remove inner shaft from transaxle stub shaft grasp inner CV joint and interconnecting shaft and pull both pieces out at the same time. good luck!
The wheels have to be removed, along with the brake calipers. There are four bolts that hold the unit hub bearing onto the front knuckles. The hubs have a very tight tolerance area that fits into the knuckle. Sometimes the hub siezes into the knuckle and this is where the labor and parts can pile up. What makes this even more difficult is that the brake rotor can only be removed after the hub is knocked out of the knuckle, so it all has to come out as an assembley.
There is a nut in the middle of the hub. That nut is on the end of the axle stub, which passes through the hub bearing. If they make good time getting the hub and all out, they can still get stuck trying to get the stub shaft out of the hub. And it will have to come out to get the U joint out. Replacing the U joints should be straight forward.
the ansew i found is replacing the seal around the joint and from both end removing it and cleaning it out i had rocks in mine from going threw water and mud ita a all day deal but a twenty doller fix axle shaft oil seal is all i had to replace
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings