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Re: i want to change the mechanical oil seal for crank...
You need a gear puller to pull the gear off. but to change the seal for the crankshaft, you only remove the timing gear and change the seal on the cover that you removed. there is nor need to pull the gear itself. if you pull the gear, you still can't change any other bearings or seals without removing the heads and manifold.
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remove the sump
undo the cap bolts
remove the cap
slipper bearing then slips out
push the rod up the cylinder enough to remove the slipper bearing the same way as you did for the cap
make sure that you install the slipper bearings correctly with the tab fitting into the small recess in the rod and cap
use plenty of oil on the crank pin and bearings
pull the rod back onto the crank pin
fit the cap and bolts
tension to correct tension
make sure that you can turn the crank shaft easily
NOTE ---if the crankshaft will not turn easily but appears bound up
loosen of the cap and check the bearing shell sizes are the same as the ones you replaced , you put the cap back on the right way
(Back to front will jam on the shaft) refit the sump
Drive shaft have only one seal and seal rear side on metal bush
1 jak up littil gear box because after shaft remov ing time oil no feldown
2 remove drive shaft rear bolt
3 mesher drive shaft seal touching area
4 mesher drive shaft Bush touching area this area damage want send machine Shoppe bush cover and drive shaft that time send seal also
Damege change that Bush also
I believe the Half Shaft is totally isolated from the Gear oil in the trani, back in '06. The half shaft should bolt to the Trani Stub with 6 (or8) allen keyed bolts. If I had to guess, I think the mechanic may have ruined the seal at the half shaft bolt up point. Maybe he was a bit hard on the stub that sticks out to accept the half shaft
You will need to remove the rear diff cover. There is a small bolt that secures the pin that the spider gears ride on. remove this bolt, and then remove the pin(you might call it a shaft). Remove the caliper and rotor from the side you are replacing, and push the axle in. Inside the differential, you will see what we call a c-clip on the end of the axle shaft you just pushed in. Sometimes this clip if it is in the right position, will fall out on it's own. If not, slide it off, and go pull the axle out. Now you can pry out the seal and replace it. There will be a pipe plug with a square recess on the front side of the differential. You can put a 3/8 drive ratchet in the recess and unscrew it. This is the fill plug. You fill the rear end untill it runs back out of this hole. It will be located about half-way up from the bottom of the differential housing.
Sometimes you have to heat the head of the bolt with a torch the use an impact wrench to break it loose.
If you don't have access to the above, you can remove the starter motor and jam the flywheel with a screwdriver or something and use a long breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt. (Kind-of the hard way, but it can work)
If you are replacing the water pump, it is recommended that you also replace the timing belt and the belt tensioner pulley while you are in there.I also personally recommend replacing the camshaft, crankshaft, and oil pump shaft seals. This can keep you from having to go back in there because of an oil leak.If this is all done at the same time, there will be no need to go back in there for another 60,000 miles.
This sounds like the crank seal, the engine doesnt have to be removed, in order to get to seal is like replacing the ttiming belt, and once in the timing belt i would replace the crank and cam seals, also do the timing belt, and maybe the waterpump, you will need to remove the crank pulley and then the timing covers then align timing marks for timing belt before ou remove it, with timing belt off the crank pulley then slides off the crankshaft and the seal is behind it, the cam shaft gear unbolts and the seal is behind the gear, once the gears are off then you will be able to remove the seals from the engine,heres a few diagrams to help. good luck and i hope this is helpful,
yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft. REMOVAL
Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images