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the reason for this is that the oem boot is not at all simple to replace, the whole cv shaft would have to be removed. the universal boot is thin and flexible to try to accomodate many variations of joints without having to remove the whole shaft. only suggestion I could make would be if your going to go thru the trouble to pull the whole shaft would be to totally replace the whole shaft. seriously its not a 30 min job, your looking at probably 3 to 4 hrs or more and thats if you have all the correct tools readily accessible. they don't come out easy, and rarely go back in easy.
YOU CAN GET A BOOT REPAIR KIT OR A ZIP BOOT.DO NOT LIKE ZIP BOOT,DOESNT WORK . BEST TO GET A REMANUFACTURED AXLE AND REPLACE AS A UNIT,DOESNT COST MUCH MORE AND WIL WORK WITH A WARRANTY.TAKE OFF WHEEL,LOOSEN AXLE NUT,TAKE OFF LOWER BALL JOINT,POP AXLE WITH HAMMER TO DRIVE AVLE OUT OF BEARING A LITTLE WAYS THEN PUILL UP ON STRUT ASSEMBLY TO GET AXLE ALL THE WAY OUT OF BEARING/HUB ASSEMBLT. POP OUT AXLE ANT HE SLIDE IN THE NEW UNIT
How to Replace a CV Boot ( DIY Complexity: Hard / Time: 3.2 hours )
Parts: 1. CV Boot 2. CV Boot Clamp Kit
Tools: 1. Mallet Hammer 2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 3. Combination Wrench Set 4. Floor Jack 5. Flashlight 6. Flat Head Screwdriver 7. Socket Set 8. Tire Iron
Steps: Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Lift up the front of the vehicle using a jack. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 4 Find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn the wheel lug nuts counter clockwise. Remove the front wheels. o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle. o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 5 Inspect the CV boot for damage. o Tip: The CV joint may be worn if the boot is damaged. Thoroughly inspect the CV joint assembly before installing the new boot. If the CV joint is damaged, replace the entire CV joint axle assembly.
Step 6 Mark the axle for installation reference. Remove the CV joint axle assembly.
Step 7 Using a bench vise, hold the shaft of the CV joint secure so that you can separate the CV joint from the shaft. Remove the CV boot clamps.
Step 8 Slide the CV boot off the outer CV joint.
Step 9 Using a rubber mallet, knock the CV joint off of the axle shaft.
Step 10 Remove the old boot from the CV axle shaft and wipe off any old grease. Clean the sealing surface on the CV joint.
Step 11 Fill the CV joint with grease and get it ready to slide back onto the shaft.
Step 12 Slide the new boot onto the shaft but do not tighten the inner clamp yet. Install a new retaining clip before putting the joint and axle together.
Step 13 Slide the CV joint back onto the axle shaft completely.
Step 14 Pack the boot with grease and slide the boot over the CV joint housing. Secure the boot with new clamps.
Step 15 Install the CV joint and axle back into the vehicle in the reverse order that it was removed.
Step 16 Mount the wheel back onto the hub assembly.
Step 17 Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and torque to suggested manufacturer specifications in the vehicle owner’s manual.
Step 18 Remove jack stands.
Step 19 Lower vehicle with jack until it is securely on the ground.
Step 20 Drive the vehicle to make sure that any noises are no longer present and that there are no indications of wearing parts. Before road testing, visually inspect the area you have worked on to make sure everything is tightened and assembled properly.
Hope help with this (remember rated and comment this help).
Easy enough job really, jack car up, put axel stand under. remove wheel - remove hub nut, remove pinch bolt - prise open the pinch bolt part (sorry cant rem name) pop out the hub from the lower arm. Remove CV join from drive shaft. Usually a tap will pop it out.. sometimes theres a circlip that need removing (models vary). Grease up new CV joint - put grease in new boot, pop boot over drive shaft. put cv join on (replace circlip if provided in kit). join cv to hub - attach CV boot fully. fasten hub nut, replace wheel.
done. might need tracking again or aligning once you do this.
Pull the wheel off and pull the cv shaft nut off (36 mm) pop off the lower ball joint and tap the cv shaft from the wheel bearing, then it should pop freely from the brake rotor and wheel bearing, you will then have full access to the cv shaft and the boot can be changed easily.
Removing/Replacing the cv shaft is not as much work as it looks. Take the wheel off, take the axle nut (36 mm) off, undo the lower ball joint (21 mm) and then undo the 6 bolts on the inboard side of the shaft (12 mm 12 point bolts) and then pull down on the inboard end of the shaft. (it may be necessary to hit the end of the bolt with a hammer) remove the splined end from the wheel hub and remove from vehicle (it is possible if a bit tricky to get the shaft out without taking anything else apart, just don't give up too easily. It is often easier and cheaper to just buy a refurbed CV shaft than it is to replace a torn boot by itself. A new boot from the dealer is over $150, a remaned shaft from Pepboys is about $75.
Did one today, assuming drive shaft removed take off large clip from inner boot slide back joint socket comes away leaving the knuckle joint on the shaft remove 19mm circlip and tap knuckle off spline this allows outer boot to come back - easy enough. Not much tubber to secure new clip over boot though especially with all the grease.
firstly remove the wheel trim and undoo the big nut on the end of the drive shaft,Then jack up and remove wheel and put stand under body remove the lower track control arm pinch bolt from lower suspension .remove brake caliper separate the lower arm from the bottom of the strut then push the drive shaft through the hub assembly and its clear .cut off old boot and look for the circlip that hold the end on which should be in the centre if the unit in a recess to allow access to the ends of the clip .You shouldnt need to remove the whole shaft just spread the clip and tap with a copper hammer.wash the thing out with diesel and take the balls out and give it a good clean ,rebuild and pack with grease slide the new rubber down the drive shaft ,refit the end but dot hit the threasded bit with a hammer put a block of wood their first then tap it on.Refit the suspension and away you go