I have a 1994 f 350 dully w/ a 7.3 L. D. motor. i need to replace the rear brake wheel cylinders and one axle seal. how do i go about removing the axles and do i need to remove the axles to get at the wheel cylinders.
Jack up truck. Remove singles or duals as required. Remove 8 bolts from axle shaft end. Use hammer to lightly tap axle shaft from hub and extract by hand axle shaft. Use appropriate spindle nut socket to remove spindle nut ratchet assy. Remove Hub. Position hub on floor and pry seal from hub. Hammer in new seal. Reinstall hub and bearings. Torque spindle nut to appropriate value. Reinstall axel shaft and bolts. Replace wheel cylinders same process as any other rear drum brake vehicle. Hub or axle removal not required to service brakes on this type truck.
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You need to crawl under the truck and inspect each brake line for leaks. You also need to check wheel cylinders and calipers. The chances are pretty good that you will find a small leak in a line or a wheel cylinder leaking, pay close attention to the rear of the truck because that is normally where these problems occur. Hope this helps.
If what you see leaking is very oily and does not evaporate, likely it is an axle seal. If there are no leaks in the brake system, that's the only thing back there that can leak. If the axle bearing is going away, it can damage the seal so make sure you look for small shiny metal flakes behind the seal when you replace it or you will be doing the job again very soon. Can't remember...that IS rear wheel drive right?
JACK up the truck and block other rear wheel both back and take hand brake off ,,remove rear wheel/brake drum/handbrake cable from rear brake/remove metal brake hose/remove rearbacking plate with all parts fitted to it ie brakeshous 4or5 bolts holding the rear axle in to housing and when all parts off then put on a IMPACK PULLER and remove complete backing plate with axle assy and take to the engineering shop to get it pressed off and a new bearing and seal assy pressed back on .
Then refit in reverse of removal and bleed the brakes and top up the rear axle of oil (EP90) apply h/brake take out blocks and lower jack and test drive .. BUT MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE 100%
-Remove tire and brake drum
-put drain pan under axle housing
-remove rear axle housing cover (10 or 12 bolts)
-turn gear untiil the bolt for cross shaft shows and remov e the bolt
-remove the cross shaft.
-push axle in until you can remove "U" clip from axle and axle will pull out,
Remove seal, you need a pulller to remove axle brg.
It appears the rear axle shaft seal is leaking. You will need to pull the axle and replace the seal. Then check the rear end for adequate gear oil. The iron filings I am not to sure about. It sounds as if something came loose from the brakes or brake hardware and got chewed up in the drum. You will need to replace the brake shoes and maybe the brake hardware kit. Always change the shoes or pads on both sides when working on brakes, rear or front. If the inside of the drum is not perfectly smooth it will need to be turned or replaced. If this were brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder the master cylinder would be low on fluid and your brake pedal would go down much further than normal.
Section 05-02A: Axle, Integral Carrier — 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
1994 Town Car, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis. Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE: Whenever replacing the rear axle lubricant, use Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent. Removal CAUTION: The rear brake anti-lock sensor must be removed before the axle shafts are removed. The rear brake anti-lock sensor is bolted on the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Raise vehicle to desired working height. Refer to Section 00-02 . Remove rear wheel (1007) and tire assembly. Remove rear disc brake calipers (2552) and rear disc brake rotors (2C026) .
Clean all dirt from area of axle housing cover with a wire brush and/or cloth.
Drain rear axle lubricant by removing the axle housing cover .
Push flanged end of the axle shafts toward the center of the vehicle and remove the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer from the button end of the axle shaft .
Remove axle shaft from the rear axle housing , being careful not to damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177) and rear brake anti-lock sensor ring.
Installation NOTE: Check for presence of rear axle shaft o-ring (4A332) on the spline end of the shaft and install if not present. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage oil seal or bearing assembly.
Carefully slide axle shaft into rear axle housing without damaging rear wheel bearing (1225) or rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator (2C189) . Start splines into side gear and push firmly until the button end of axle shaft can be seen in the differential case .
Install the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer on the button end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage and the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear .
Position the differential pinion shaft through the differential case and differential pinion gears , aligning the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the lock bolt hole. Apply Rear Axle Lubricant to differential pinion shaft lock pin . Install differential pinion shaft lock pin and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
CAUTION: Differential pinion shaft lock pin must be tightened to specification using Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA (WSK-M2G349-A1) or equivalent.
NOTE: Axle housing cover must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone rubber or new silicone rubber must be applied. CAUTION: Make sure machined surfaces on both axle housing cover and rear axle housing are clean before installing the new silicone sealant. Inside of axle must be covered when cleaning the machined surface to prevent axle contamination. Tighten the cover bolts in a crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on axle housing cover .
Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or BA (ESB-M4G92-A or ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent. Install axle housing cover and tighten retaining bolts to 28-38 Nm (38-52 lb-ft).
Add Motorcraft Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL or KL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent until it is 6-14mm (1/4-9/16 inch) below bottom of fill hole. Add 118.3 mL (4 oz) of Ford Additive Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A (EST-M2C118-A) or equivalent to Traction-Lok axles. Install fill plug and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
Insert Rear Bearing Remover T85L-1225-AH in bore and position it behind bearing so tangs on tool engage bearing outer race. Remove rear wheel bearing and inner wheel bearing oil seal as a unit, using Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A.
Rear Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate
Lubricate the rear wheel bearing with Rear Axle Lubricant.
Install rear wheel bearing into the housing bore using Axle Tube Bearing Replacer T78P-1225-A.
CAUTION: Installation of rear wheel bearing or inner wheel bearing oil seal assembly without proper tool may result in an early bearing or seal failure. If inner wheel bearing oil seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install a new one.
Install the inner wheel bearing oil seal using Axle Tube Seal Replacer T78P-1177-A. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent between the lips of the inner wheel bearing oil seal .
It is fairly easy to do. remove rear wheels and brake drums, remove the differential cover, rotate the diff to access the diff pin bolt and remove, remove pin, push axles inward and remove c clips, slide out axles and replace seals. reverse procedure
In the center of the hub is the axle retaining bolts, 8 I think, remove them and pull the axle out, under that is a giant nut that retains the hub, it requires a quite expensive special tool to remove and re-install correctly, that huge nut retains the entire hub/brake drum assembly. Replace th grease seal and check the axle bearing while you have it apart.
Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.