Question about 1995 Buick Park Avenue

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95 buick park avenue wont start

Car will crank but will not start. It is getting fuel. Have had the 3 caps and module checked and they checked ok. what should i look for next

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  • Rick  Howard
    Rick Howard Dec 16, 2008

    My 1995 Buick Park Avenue has same problem...I left it at the Dealership for literally "over one whole year" in hopes of their being able to figure this out but, unfortunately, they were not able to solve this same mysterious problem. They replaced the computer and the fuel pump and removed the fuel "GAS TANK" twice.thinking it might be related to the baffels in the gas tank...but the problem persists. It will crank and run fine untill it decides not to then blah! it just dies where ever and when ever it wants to. The starter will spin over like a top. It just won't start... Any ideas? codes from computer...old one or new one??? Thanks in advance for any help. Rick Howard

  • sixone9ine Dec 22, 2008

    Hello there, my problem is similar. My 1995 Buick park ave will, now after three years of ownership, turn over but not start. I figured out that if i leave the key in the on position or just let it set for 2-3 min it will start. Problem is i can be anywhere and park it come out and have to sit for God knows how long. Inconvienient and embarising! Can anybody help with a REAL SOLUTION! I have been told it was in the security feature, relay, and have paid money to no avail, so i need an actual solution short of trading it in, i can't function not knowing if my car will start from one day to the next!

  • Jason gerk Feb 26, 2009

    The starter works fine, battery full, and I have tried the advice of turning the ignition on for 10 minutes, off for 10 minutes..repeat 3 times-still nothing. I have been told it is the sensor wires in the ignition not picking up the signal from the key--is there a home remedy?

  • aunt phee Mar 30, 2009

    My Park Avenue will die on me when driving down the road. It will eventually start. I also don't know if or when it will start. It may start for days and then not start. We have replaced the fuel pump, and some other minor electrical things but still the problem persist. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

  • kickfire May 29, 2013

    I got this off another site: ok this system is very easy to bypass.take a multi meter and set it to ohms.measure the resistance of the resistor in the key.side to side of lead on one side and the other lead on the other side it should give you a reading of OHMS.then swing by a shop that installs after market alarms or remote starters.they have sets of resistors they use when they bypass these systems for remote starts.either get a resistor from them or even radio shack as close to the reading you got when you measured your key pellet.THEN get under the steering column and there will be 2 small wires (usually white)they should run up to the ignition lock threw the steering column.make sure you have found those 2 wires cut them and splice back the wires(harness side NOT the cut wires running up to the lock) put one end of the resistor to one of the wires and the last end to the last wire.that should tell the module you have the correct resistance all the time and allow it to run and start just fine(the only other way to fix it is to replace the ignition lock cylinder.those small wires that go into the lock cylinder love to break and cause this problem



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What is the solution

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

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Is it gettin spark pull a spark plug wire use a screw driver n see if you are getting spark or have your friend hold the wire if he yells you got spark if you dont it could be the crankshaft timing sensor found down by harmonic balancer it is hard to get to so be sure before you try to change it be sure .also check ecu,and ignition fuses look at all fuse n relays good luck nlet me know what u find

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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Mine had the same problems and my buddy replaced my vacuum lines and my battery and seems to be OK. Now, though, if I turn it off for just a few minutes on a hot day, it won't start.

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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Stratus 2000 . Want to start but nothing

2000 Dodge Stratus. with Automatic transmission?
No engine size stated, so all answers are GENERIC.
will it crank, if it dont crank over fast post that.
no engine starts, unless cranked or with MT/ push started or gravity started.
i think "wants" means it cranks , over, ROBUSTLY.
i have a text file here for no starts. (cranks ok)

Gas engines: (Otto Cycle)
the classic, engine has good spec.1-compression, then 2-good spark and last 3- good fueling still works.
123, simple,called basics.

I will call the ECU a PCM.(modern named) and USA spec, cars only.
Powertrain control Module (the magic device, that runs fuel injection and spark)

Check all fuses using any Ohmmeter (resistance) or any DMM with one inside. Zero Ohms or less than 1 is a good fuse.

The PCM can not run any engine, if 12vdc electrical power is missing on any car. Use the same meter to be sure the PCM has full 12.6vdc power from the battery, key on.

The CIG lighter port is a convenient test point. just key on 12.6vdc
If the IMMoblizer lamp glows, the engine will not start.
If the security lamp glows, on many cars the car will not start. (read the operators guide it explains all this in the section "how to start your engine"

The CEL lamp must glow key on, if not?, that means the PCM is DEAD.
There are 3 or more PCM fuses, and are already tested.

On 1996 and newer cars (USA) if the scan tool can not communicate, then the ECU is dead, (or fuses blown )
OK , key on CEL out , IMMO out , Security out.

Crank for 5 seconds, with scan tool attached, see DTC's now? BINGO.!
All PCMs can report bad sensors cranking. Even the old OBD1 cars.

SPaRK, if there are no DTC errors, there might spark now on, all cylinders.
check them all ,because, 1 bad and all bad are two different causes.

If spark is 100% dead , many cars you can remove the distributor cap to see of cam spins, if not?,the cam belt snapped. or on some, with no actual distributor, you can look down inside the oil filler cap hole and see the cam spin.(cranking)
if the CAM stops spinning,. ANY ! PCM WILL report that. (CMP dead) cmp = cam sensor.

I check for spark and if it's good on all cylinders, I then check spark timing, ) see if timing is way off?, that means the cam belt or (hard to believe; chain slipped) fix that now. (a strobe light is $20 today)
strobe = automotive spark timing light.

SPARK GOOD, now (last )
As Scotty shows, he then uses test fuel; if car runs good, for 3 seconds, then you have all things good, so far and , just bad (dead) fueling if engine runs only 3 seconds, on test fuel.
SAY NO fuel injected?
check fuel pressure is over 30PSI, (see fsm for spec) and use a NOID light to see if the PCM is sending injecton pulses.
You can listen to injectors with a stethoscope, but is hard to hear cranking. (i have special tool for that)
there are up to 6 tests for the fuel pressure, including leakdown, shunt test and balance.

OK it's flooding. (spark tips soaked in fuel)

Please be aware that leaking injectors (1 or or more) can cause no starts and is flooding , if I suspect it (black cloud at tail pipe end) I do the injector leakdown and balance test ,now)
To clear flooding, crank with the throttle wide open,this trick cuts fuel.
if it still foods you can pull the fuel pump relay to kill the pump , the crank it dry.

Flooding is a whole set of tests. to find true cause.
Too high fuel presssure, say 65 PSI or more?
ECT stuck at -30F degrees?
injectors leaking.
no startup air supply , ISC stuck closed?
end, (ask for help for any of these possible paths)"

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Truck wont crank. we have put new distributor cap, rotor button, coil pack, plugs, wires, and fuel pump. we also checked our firing order.

you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.

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Check the classic symtoms here, first make sure the engine is getting fuel and spark. Make sure your distributor module is not bad, it is located inside your distributor. Next make sure your coil pak is not faulty. Also look at your ignition relays to make sure they are not blown. Also check ignition fuses. If all these tests prove ok and you have a distributor instead of a coil pak then check the wires to the module inside the distributor for slight wear marks on them that sometimes happens when the wires rub on the metal turning shaft in the distributor cap.

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My car wont start

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

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