Is it gettin spark pull a spark plug wire use a screw driver n see if you are getting spark or have your friend hold the wire if he yells you got spark if you dont it could be the crankshaft timing sensor found down by harmonic balancer it is hard to get to so be sure before you try to change it be sure .also check ecu,and ignition fuses look at all fuse n relays good luck nlet me know what u find
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2000 Dodge Stratus. with Automatic transmission?
No engine size stated, so all answers are GENERIC.
will it crank, if it dont crank over fast post that.
no engine starts, unless cranked or with MT/ push started or gravity started.
i think "wants" means it cranks , over, ROBUSTLY.
i have a text file here for no starts. (cranks ok)
Gas engines: (Otto Cycle)
the classic, engine has good spec.1-compression, then 2-good spark and last 3- good fueling still works.
123, simple,called basics.
I will call the ECU a PCM.(modern named) and USA spec, cars only.
Powertrain control Module (the magic device, that runs fuel injection and spark)
Check all fuses using any Ohmmeter (resistance) or any DMM with one inside. Zero Ohms or less than 1 is a good fuse.
The PCM can not run any engine, if 12vdc electrical power is missing on any car. Use the same meter to be sure the PCM has full 12.6vdc power from the battery, key on.
The CIG lighter port is a convenient test point. just key on 12.6vdc
If the IMMoblizer lamp glows, the engine will not start.
If the security lamp glows, on many cars the car will not start. (read the operators guide it explains all this in the section "how to start your engine"
The CEL lamp must glow key on, if not?, that means the PCM is DEAD.
There are 3 or more PCM fuses, and are already tested.
On 1996 and newer cars (USA) if the scan tool can not communicate, then the ECU is dead, (or fuses blown )
OK , key on CEL out , IMMO out , Security out.
Crank for 5 seconds, with scan tool attached, see DTC's now? BINGO.!
All PCMs can report bad sensors cranking. Even the old OBD1 cars.
SPaRK, if there are no DTC errors, there might spark now on, all cylinders.
check them all ,because, 1 bad and all bad are two different causes.
If spark is 100% dead , many cars you can remove the distributor cap to see of cam spins, if not?,the cam belt snapped. or on some, with no actual distributor, you can look down inside the oil filler cap hole and see the cam spin.(cranking)
if the CAM stops spinning,. ANY ! PCM WILL report that. (CMP dead) cmp = cam sensor.
I check for spark and if it's good on all cylinders, I then check spark timing, ) see if timing is way off?, that means the cam belt or (hard to believe; chain slipped) fix that now. (a strobe light is $20 today)
strobe = automotive spark timing light.
SPARK GOOD, now (last )
As Scotty shows, he then uses test fuel; if car runs good, for 3 seconds, then you have all things good, so far and , just bad (dead) fueling if engine runs only 3 seconds, on test fuel.
SAY NO fuel injected?
check fuel pressure is over 30PSI, (see fsm for spec) and use a NOID light to see if the PCM is sending injecton pulses.
You can listen to injectors with a stethoscope, but is hard to hear cranking. (i have special tool for that)
there are up to 6 tests for the fuel pressure, including leakdown, shunt test and balance.
OK it's flooding. (spark tips soaked in fuel)
Please be aware that leaking injectors (1 or or more) can cause no starts and is flooding , if I suspect it (black cloud at tail pipe end) I do the injector leakdown and balance test ,now)
To clear flooding, crank with the throttle wide open,this trick cuts fuel.
if it still foods you can pull the fuel pump relay to kill the pump , the crank it dry.
Flooding is a whole set of tests. to find true cause.
Too high fuel presssure, say 65 PSI or more?
ECT stuck at -30F degrees?
no startup air supply , ISC stuck closed?
end, (ask for help for any of these possible paths)"
you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
Check the classic symtoms here, first make sure the engine is getting fuel and spark. Make sure your distributor module is not bad, it is located inside your distributor. Next make sure your coil pak is not faulty. Also look at your ignition relays to make sure they are not blown. Also check ignition fuses. If all these tests prove ok and you have a distributor instead of a coil pak then check the wires to the module inside the distributor for slight wear marks on them that sometimes happens when the wires rub on the metal turning shaft in the distributor cap.
a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.
ok if you have spark normally the module is ok well you say you have fuel is it fuel injected and if it is how much fuel pressure do you have you should have at least 35 psi of pressure minimum if not suspect clogged fuel filter or bad pump
Are you getting spark to the plugs?? Take off a plug wire and put close to block 1/2" or so)and have someone crank engine-- is there spark?? if yes check ur fuel system--Fuel system could be plugged( filters) or worst fuel pump .
3.8 are known for ignition trouble but first use the fuel release valve located on top of engine under a screw cap to see if your getting fuel. It takes 4 things to make engine run fuel spark air and compression. But most likely the Ign control module or crank sensor. So try this 1) check the fuel pressure 2) check for spark 3) compression test
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle