Question about 2005 Peugeot 405

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My 405 diesel est gearbox

I have 405 with blown gearbox i do have one that is alittle diferent it has the pushpull cluch fork in it ,i also have cluch plat and preashur plate to suit but , will i have to chang the flyweel

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No you should not have to change the flywheel they were all the same - but as the cable and clutch fork operate differently you would be advised to check this

one anchors the cable outer and the inner cable moves the clutch fork
the other the inner cable is anchored and the outer sheath moves the clutch fork

also while you have it all off change the clutch thrust bearing
and be careful of the plastic speedo drive housed in the output of the diff it doesnt take much to break it (drive shaft going in at a slight angle)

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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engine performance ?(on an engine stand?)
or the driving wheels to road performance.?
please say exactly what you want or post symptoms. or?
engine codes are very hard to find here. (USA)
ah, but are here.
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wiki: ,see bold , I added.
The 405 was available as a 4-door only. Four-cylinder petrol engines included 65, 92, 110, 125, and 160 hp (48, 69, 82, 93, and 119 kW) units. A 1.8-litre diesel engine, with or without a turbo (70 and 90 hp (52 and 67 kW)) was added to the range during 1988 as was the 5-door estate.
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The 405 range included three petrol engines and two diesel engines, all four-cylinder with no 6-cylinder option, in a variety of states of tune and specification. The range was tailored to suit different export markets. The 1.6-litre saloon featured a low drag co-efficient of Cd=0.29, with other models varying up to Cd=0.33. The 1.4-litre (1,360 cc) engine was fitted with a four-speed manual gearbox. It produced 70 hp (52 kW) at 5600 rpm. The 1.6-litre (1,580 cc) engine was fitted with a five-speed manual gearbox and produced 92 hp (69 kW) at 6000 rpm. The 1.9-litre (1,905 cc) engine was available with a five speed manual gearbox, with an option of an automatic in the lower powered version.
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1 Answer

I did change the complete cluch with the origional from the supplier, but the problem stay, The gearbox is still a cast iron type, and has a hydraulic sustem with a lollypop type fork, there is a constant...


So the hydraulic clutch is keeping pressure on the fork and the throw-out bearing (U.S. slang for clutch release bearing?) or thrust bearing is always running against the fingers on the pressure plate, is that the problem? And of course it burns out the bearing rather quickly?
You will have to examine all the parts, the slave cylinder and it's shaft, the fork and it's pivot point. Something in there not allowing the bearing to pull back far enough from the pressure plate so that it stops rotating. Is your pedal adjusted right? Maybe start there-the pedal has to allow a fraction of free play. Otherwise it is always putting pressure on the hydraulics.

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GEARBOX 1995 USUZU MU 3.1 DIESEL


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did you get a new bracket for the cluch cable ? and the second question is did you use it

yes ? yes ? ok so u did

it sounds like the cluch fork is installed wrong or the trow out bearing is out of align or broken

eithor way disconect cable put car in gear and rock it

ok na da nilch then your taking it back apart inspecting each piece as you go untill you find the problem check each piece for function like spilit the trans from motor but leave the axcells in pop it in gear and torque the tire if it holds then it is the through out bering

have a good night dude you got 3-6 hour of hard labour ahead depending on how good you are

grab a coffey it gona be a long night

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Anyway, you need the exact gearbox model to find out which car model else were built with these types of gearboxes. Manual gearboxes with same models can be exchanged from any car or van and have nothing to do with car ECUs.

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1 Answer

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