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Re: Heat/cool control does not travel full range,how can...
Takes a bit of crawling and looking upside down, but can be done. Cable leaves controller and curves along some sort of pathway to the heater blend/door probably on top of the HVAC box. SHould end up on passenger side, I think. You should find this cable's end with a loop on it attached to a lever that works the hot/cold door. Check if door moves freely with cable unhooked from door end. If so, move controller and feel looped end with your fingers. Still stiff? Proceed:
Cable can be fed out of dash and lubricated, but I've seen many that were just ready to be replaced. They are cheap to special order, and once you get it out, you'll know if it was a rough pathway, or a bad cable, or a sticky door. Sometimes the button that secures the far end to the box and holds the cable housing stationary can get loose and pop partially out of its slot, too. Hope that helps, TaterTodd
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There are 2possibles ,1. The heat / cool slide control is defective, it is not possible to repair. Most likely the servo motor that opens and closes the air vent that gives you heat or cool is stuck. Open your glove box and you will see 2 rubber tabs that hold the door at the open and down position. Push down on your glove box door until it swings all the way down (this wil be past normal open) up inside you will see a metal rod affixed to a arm that pivots via the servo left is full vent(cool) right is full heat. Push your hot/cold heat selector and see if it moves. It may not be moving its full extension. If your not sure push it right and you should get heat push it left and you should get cool check YouTube this is a common problem for this era of Buicks, good luck Bret
air control heat knob needs removing to determine if its the knob itself, this will just pull off, look at reverse of knod and look to see if the center locating pigot is worn "round" or broken , if this looks ok then the panel housing the knob controls will need removing and then check if the heat control wire is in place, if so trace this wire ,this is a bare steel control wire not an electrical the wire, to the heater box lower dash behind the control panel and see if you can manually move the heat control flap this will look like two toothed semi circular cogs that inter lock , one may have jumped out of place try a little vaseline on the cogs to help lubricate the movement,this is just good practice, after all this i think you will have found the problem.
Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on
where door sticks)
all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive
that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the
AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air
temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this
door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common
complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these
parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire
dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or
qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.
causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck
open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.
is there a thermostat for the heater loop the same as for the radiator loop on your car cooling system.
1 some cars have thermostats to keep the water just round the engine when the engine is cold and then they open as the engine gets warm to get the water cooled it seems that the water is not coming to the heating circuit so there maybe a thermostat valve that is stuck in the closed position and needs replacement 2 alterativly the heat control lever mechanism is stuck in the cold position and needs to be freed up or the control valve replaced. 3if the system is electrically controlled with no manual levers for heat control then a fuse may have blown or some other electical problem in the heat control mechanism.
Check the heater control valve. It is usually behind the engine up next to the firewall. Have someone inside the car move the heater control to heat. A lever on the heater control valve should move when this is done.
This valve allows hot coolant to enter the heater core inside the car. If this hot coolant doesn't arrive, you have no heat.
The clicking noise is the motor for the "blend door". The heater core and the air conditioning side share the same ducting. When you move the knob a small motor moves the door letting the respective hot or cool flow happen. The heater core is probably blocked. The engineers at Ford have the coolant hoses bypassing the core with a WYE at the firewall. The coolant takes the path of least resistance and stops FLUSHING the heater core and it eventually clogs.
PERHAPS SOMEONE HAS REMOVED THE THERMOSTAT. OR MAYBE THE HEAT CONTROL VALVE IS NOT OPERATING IN FULL RANGE. HOPE THIS POINTS YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU FOR USING FIX-YA. AND THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANHONEST RATING