Question about 2005 Nissan Altima
Installed brand new Sony radio (old one died). Antenna connections at radio and at rear windshield antenna have been checked and are solid. Suspect powered Clarion antenna amplifier (model# 1089 I) is the problem. Does it have a separate fuse? If so, where is it located? Unit has 3 wires, one to the antenna and two unshielded wires disappearing above the head liner. I assume one is 12v and the other the RF signal with the ground being made through the mounting bolt. Where do these wires go and how do they get there and where do they finally wind up? If amp is bad, who carries replacements/substitutes besides the dealer?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try radio shack, or stereo sales/installation place for ready to go plug adapter. For a few bucks, it saves headaches, and butchering the wiring in case you want to re-install old one later when trading in or selling the car.
Posted on Aug 30, 2008
SOURCE: Turn signal light flasher unit
Remove the dash cover that has the fuse cover dorr on it (2 screws). Then remove the metal bracket ubder this panel (4 screws). Look up on the side next to center console.Next to a blue box is the flasher. Know if someone can figure out how to remove flasher let me know.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
SOURCE: 96 Nissan Maxima Radio Antenna
The gears are going out in the motor. If the antenna goes up and down, then the gears have corrosion. If it does not move....then the gears are toasted or the antenna cable inside the housing is broken.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
frajogag: First off, be aware that these bolts are "torque to yield" bolts (streach bolts). What this means is that instead of torqueing the head bolts to a specific torque specification, they are torqued down to a set spec and then tightened by rotating the bolts a certain angle, like 90 degrees. and all of them are turned the same amount.
This means that the shanks of the bolts must be checked to make sure they are not too thin (or the bolt has already stretched beyond limits and is prone to snap if used)
Here is how you check the bolts. Measure the bolt using a micrometer, at the base, or within the first 13mm from the end where it threads in. Then go to about 10mm before the threads end heading toward the top of the bolt. There should not be more than a 0.23mm (.0091 inch) or less difference or the bolt should be discarded.
Torque the bolts down to 98.1Nm ( 72.ft lb)
Looking at the head from the side, so you are looking at the full length from side to side, I will number the head bolts in this fashion.
#1 & 2 are directly in front of you and in the center of the cylinder head crossing it width wise.
#3&4 are to the left of #1&2, / #5&6 are to the right of #1&2
#7&8 are to the left of #3&4 / #9$10 are to the right of #5&6
Now, you have the sequence.
After the initial pull, back off all the bolts in the same sequence and then retorque them to 36 Nm ( 28 ft lb)
Using a torque angle wrench or having the ability to accurately judge turning angles. Rotate (clockwise) to a 75 degree angle. do this to all the bolts using the sequence I had provided.
Rotate the bolts (clockwise) 75 degrees again on all bolts in the same sequence. The proceedure is complete!
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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