Hi, just rebuilt the whole motor bored it .30, new stock cam, valve job, edelbrock,intake, carb. everything new but old points distirbutor. ran really rough. so i ordered new msd distrib, and ignition w/ new coil, but before i installed new ignition , i found huge vacum leak( one of the intake bolts broke off, maybe causing it to run rough). so i extracted the bolt replaced it with new bolt , put in new distrib and ignition. now it runs really rough tried everything. checked wires, firing order, 180 out. please help. thomas
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Edelbrock cars are square bore and Quadrajets are spreadbore make sure you have either an adaptor plate if running stock manifold or you'll have vacuum leaks, as far as tuning Edelbrocks are EZ. 2 air/fuels screws that only effect idle, turn in till runs rough then back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn on both, that will set it for economy, for performance engines, turn out or counter clockwise till runs rough then turn back in clockwise 1/2 to full turn, set idle ***** and your good to go, the two vacuum ports in front are distributor advance, the right side closest to manifold is full time vacuum hook there for performance or left side for economy.. if you buy a new edelbrock carb it will run great right out of the box, also has a set/up DVD, for novice Mechanics, ez to change metering rods too, hope this helps, and in my opinion Quadrapuke carbs are junk.
Once you checked and double check your work, no vacuum leaks, valve lash, fuel pressure and volume, call Axelrod for support. The carb may need to be rejeted or adjusted if possible one or two sizes larger, timing adjusted, to complete the job
If you want 300hp out of your 318 this will get you there: Bowl port the heads and have the valves back-cut 30*, Edelbrock RPM intake(Airgap is more money and the rpm and rpm airgap are basicly the same), Any 600cfm carb, Comp 20-309-4, Headers and dual exhaust. This combo will give you great bottom end and will make 300hp.
The cam, intake and carb alone will not get you there, you need more head flow. So bowl port the heads, or install some 360 heads. good day ! or is this a bit much !! the 1973 Mopar 318 has 150 hp at 3,600 rpm.
There are special electronic fuel pumps you can get for this kind of conversion that wont put to much fuel pressure in the carb and blow the bowls.
As long as the distributer is vacuum advance and for a 302 it should be able to work. The main difference will be the firing order on the truck engine may be different. So you have to make sure your #1 cylinder is at top dead center and route the post on the cap its pointing at to the #1 cylinder and go from there.
The intake and carb you have should also work.
Your problem would be in the power valve/accelerator pump circuit. This is the circuit that feeds gas to the engine when the changeover from idle to driving occurs.At idle the vacuum in the carb draws gas so no mechanical means of delivering fuel is needed. The same is true when you reach a consistant driving speed.During the changeover you need a way to increase fuel to the engine by mechanical means. Some carbs have an accelerator pump some call it a power valve. The changes in your intake and cam are enough so the stock circuit is unable to compensate properly. The dealer for the carb should be able to help you out with parts to increase the flow and rate of flow. Hope this helps.
port polish only on heads, they crack plus valve job. on the block and cam, that motors all torque so go with low end output, fat cam, 30 over max on bore-they crack. safest way for big power is a stroke kit. call edelbrock tell them you wishes and what you have now, main thing is how much your gonna have to bore to clean up walls, and they give you some good options. unless you have alota money and dont require this motor to be dependable dont expect more than 320hp and 350 ft of torque. 302 will take you farther cheaper and lighter for your money. if your talking for a car and not a truck- go 302 and dont look back
If this is the stock 302 cu. inch V-8, the original carburetor will be a Motorcraft 550 CFM carb. If you would like an upgrade I wouldn't go up on the cfm's unless you do a intake manifold change to a competion intake such as a Edelbrock competition intake or other modifications (increased compression ratio, larger valves, higher lift cam etc.) that would allow increased flow.
I agree, jumped timing. Check to make sure the dist is tight. Than check for tdc on the #1 cylinder. When the #1 cyl is TDC the rotor should be pointing to that wire on the cap. Take the cap off while checking. Also is easier to turn motor by hand without plugs in motor.