Question about 2002 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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Running rough, chokes, whole truck shakes until speed is over 50,

The abs light and service engine soon light are on. Transmission will only go in R when truck is cold. The shaking thing is worse when I sit in traffic and then have to get back up to over 50. At that time, the RPM goes up, but the most the truck will do is about 40, then something just happens and I can go on to regular speeds. 1999 Ford F 150 Ext cab, v8 , 5.7, 148,000 miles I have also replaced my alternator 3 times in the last 1 1/.2 yrs.

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  • kqlb62 Dec 05, 2008

    1999 ford f 150 A/T . The vehicle "chokes " down, (I don't have a manual choke).

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6 Answers

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FOR abhishek33 nice copy of my idle surge fix, but this is not going to fix this isuue, The 1st thing that has to be done is check the system voltage, engine running at least 13 volts? next run a trouble code test on the engine, any codes? next verify fuel pressure is at least 40 PSI, gun the engine and watch the guage for a drop, it should not drop, it should increase pressure when throttle is goosed, all in all the trans sounds like it is on the way out or a solenoid is failing in the trans, don't guess on this, do the tests I outlined, I am a Ford certified master tech and these are the thing I would do in the shop given your given on the problem.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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try changing fuel and air filters .
and  is it blowing smoke more than normal, if so u might have blown a head gasket 
also replace motor. Water in oil. 

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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Most likely you have a detached or damaged Vacum line and its causing this issue.

If the ABS light is staying on, it means that you dont have ABS because something is wrong, that is a seperate issue and should be addressed by a mechanic. If you installed the wrong Rotars on the truck then it would also set off the ABS light. You have to get rotars that are for your truck, but with the ABS version.

Yo will know if the Rotars are ABS capable because the rotar will say ABS on the inner ring and it will have notches on the inside of the cap. You could take them to a auto parts place and have them look and tell you if they are.

AS for the the shaking and, this could be a lose or damages vacume line, its usually a smaller line that comes off the PCM valve and travels around, it recirculates the emissions to reburn them, if this comes lose the vehicl can run rough, shake and even stahl. This would also set off your check engine light.

Is it standard or automatic?

If its only going into revers untill it warms up, You may have a damaged Transmission or low fluid and its not engaging. Have mechanic check it out or buy a new truck. Both are expensive.

I would advise you got to walmart, go to the auto section, and buy a Code reader for about $50.

this will save you time and money. You will know whats causing the codes and can take it to a machanic and tell them whats wrong and know there not taking you for a ride.

The code reader has instructions and usually the connector is under the steering column, the are universal fits from about year 95 and up.

Read the codes and find out whats causing your engine light to come on.


Another issue may be that your catalytic converter went bad and its tripping your check engine light. If the Cat goes bad, it can cause all of these symptoms and eventually destroy your transmission.

Get that code reader, its a good investment. Most auto places have them as well, but walmarts is cheaper and simple to use.

Good luck and get back to me if you have any questions.


P.S. please inlude the MAKE, MODEL and Year of the vehicle along with engine sixe if you can.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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Might be the battery problem. Please have the battery checked by your dealer.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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There are so many possibilities here that I'd be crazy to make a wild guess! It could be either fuel, ignition, or a plugged exhaust system, and the only way to sort this out is to have someone with an engine analyzer take a look at it.

If that isn't practical, check the various systems one by one, and hope you run across the problem.

Since the fuel is gravity feed, there is no pump to worry about, so verify that the fuel line valve is all the way open, and that there isn't any restriction in the line by disconnecting the line into the carburetor to see if you get a good strong flow of gas into a separate container held at the same height as the carburetor inlet. If it flows a strong pencil sized stream, your problem isn't lack of fuel.

When you do a cold start, you should be adjusting the mixture toward "rich" to get it to start, but you need lean it out as the engine warms up. You are also pulling the knob to choke it when you crank, right? You need to push the choke knob back in as soon as it begins to stumble. You also may have to lean out the mixture by turning the knob toward lean. I forget which way is lean and which is rich on the knob in the cab (I sold my last Model A in 1951!), you'll have to ask someone who has a model A if you can't figure out which way to go to lean it out.

The spark should be all the way toward ****** to start the engine, then advance it about half way as soon as it starts, and make fine adjustments from there as the engine warms up and as you begin to drive off. More advance gives you more power, up to a point, but beyond that point, more advance will make the engine stumble and kick back, so make sure you are not over advancing it.

To check for a plugged exhaust, you need to remove the exhaust pipe right at the exhaust manifold, then start the engine. It will be outrageously loud, but keep it running long enough to determine whether or not this makes the problem go away. (Better warn your neighbors before you do this!)

Take care.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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Hi Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 05, 2008

    before you start your car press and hold the trip reset button turn the key to start your car and keep the button pressed within 10 seconds the clock will show 0000 when this appears each time you press the trip button it will self test differant systems full dash clock sweep all warning lights engine rpm alternator charge engine core temp fuel flow and will list fault codes which can be checked on this site atleast it will save you afew quid/euros dollers on ford checking it for you and you will know what if anything needs doing i hope this helps 



  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 05, 2008



    try this by  taking the MAF sensor off and cleaning it, it was still there... I ended up changing the throttle position sensor and all was well. It cost about 23 bucks..You can try this first. 



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