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Re: auxillary radiator fan will not shut off
The fan is controlled by the A/C as well as engine,so it could be a switch on the A/C its in the pipe somewhere and when the pressure builds up it turns the fan on ....or a sensor on the cylinder head thats packed up or just a rely arced across and melted contacts together.
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Sometimes these fans are made to run after the engine is shut off to dissipate residual heat. Will it shut off after 5 minutes on its own? If it continues to run after several minutes, then you need a new thermal switch in the radiator.
Some cars are designed to allow the fans to run even with the key off until the engine and radiator cool down. If it continues to run after 19-15 minutes you may have a sticking fan relay, usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment, just replace it and it should take care of your problem
The thermo switch is fitted into the radiator low down on the left side (when sitting in drivers seat). It should have 2 thick wires going to it. If these are pulled off and joined together the fan should run continuously, even with the ignition switched off. It is reasonably easy to change if you have the correct size ring spanner. Dont forget to refill the radiator with antifreez when you have finnished. the part is readily available from most after market parts suppliers
It is the cooling fan relay,it will be in the fuse/relay box under the hood,on drivers side,or near the fans,if you remove the correct relay,the cooling fans will turn off.Just replace it with a new one from the parts store.
The auxillary fan is used for AC cooling purposes, and your vehicle
under normal circumstances should not overheat regardless of the status of the auxillary fan.
That being said, the auxillary fan is controlled by the PCM based on AC switch position via a fan
control relay in your fuse box under the hood. There is no fan switch
for it, as it is turned on based on PCM observance of AC control switch position.
Some things to look at regarding your overheat condition:
When the vehicle begins overheating, what are the conditions of the radiator hoses? Are both firm, or only one and the other soft? Are both hot, or is one hot and the other only warm?
Both a failed waterpump and a failed shut thermostat will show a hot hose on one side and only a warm hose on the other side of the radiator.
A failed (stuck shut) thermostat will also result in one very firm hose (highly pressurized and nowhere to go with the thermostat shut) and one relatively soft hose.
You can take the radiator cap off (BEFORE it pressurizes) and watch the water level as the car runs. If the thermostat is opening and waterpump is pumping, you will see fluid flow once it gets to operating temperature.
Watch your engine fan and see if it is engaged or just spinning freely. When warm and the engine shut off, the fan clutch should be engaged making the fan more resistant to turn. If it spins freely, the clutch is failing.
Check the area around the radiator and between it and the condenser for obstructions to airflow.
Obviously check the condition of the coolant for heavy scale/sludge. The 3.0/3.5 engines are notorious for turning coolant into thick rusty puddy.